Bear Cuisine

Tourain Blanchi

After wandering the streets of Perigueux on a rainy, chilly morning, we had worked up something of an appetite. Our group gathered for lunch at an outdoor cafe, Cocotte et Cie. On the menu was a soup that is unique to this part of France, Tourain Blanchi. The best way I can think to describe it is  as a sort of garlic-egg drop soup. I found a recipe for it on a French website: auFeminin.com. I haven't yet tried to make it so I am offering this recipe untested. The version I enjoyed was quite tasty and bracing on a blustery day.

 TOURAIN BLANCHI

• 15 cloves of garlic
• few springs of thyme
• few leaves of sage
• 3 eggs
• 1 teaspoon of vinegar
• Salt and Pepper

Heat two liters of water

Peel the garlic cloves and press them. Put them in boiling water with salt, pepper, thyme and sage. Cook for 3/4's of an hour. When cooked, taste and adjust seasoning by adding salt and pepper is necessary.

Break the eggs and set the whites aside.

Pass the soup through a fine sieve.

Return to the heal and boil, then remove from the heat and ad the egg whites all at once, stirring well.

Beat the yolks with the tablespoon of vinegar, then put this mixture into the bottom of a bowl. First add a little soup and stir well; add a little more and so on until you have 1/3 of the soup added, then add all of the remaining soup.

Serve hot with parsley and croutons.

Pasta e Fagioli

Christine Hickman has had several wonderful classes this winter. One of them included a fabulous recipe for this well-known Italian soup. I've thought about making this soup for what seems forever and now I finally have. This would make a great casual supper. Add bread, salad and a good bottle of wine and you're in business.

PASTA AND BEAN SOUP FROM THE VENETO

Pasta e Fagioli

(serves 6 to 8)

1. 12 ounces dried borlotti or cranberry beans, soaked overnight
2. 2 ounces pancetta, minced
3. 1 yellow onion, peeled and minced
4. 1/2 celery stalk, minced
5. 2 sprigs Italian parsley, trimmed and minced
6. 2 tablespoons tomato paste, or 2 fresh tomatoes, roughly chopped
7. 2 cloves garlic, crushed, peeled and minced 
8. 1 large sprig fresh rosemary
9. 2 fresh sage leaves
10. 6 1/2 cups cold water or half water and half low-sodium chicken broth
11. Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
12. 8 ounces small tubular pasta
13. 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigianao-Reggiano or Grana Padano
14. 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil for drizzling

Drain beans and put in a heavy pot. Add pancetta, onion, celery, parsley, tomato paste or tomato, garlic rosemary, sage and all the liquid. Bring to a boil over high heat then reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until bean are very tender, about 2 1/2 hours.

Transfer half the soup to a food processor and puree until smooth. If you have a blending wand, transfer half the soup to a bowl and puree the remaining soup in the pot. Stir the soup from the bowl or food processor back into the pot.

In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook the pasta al dente. the time depends on the type of pasta you are using. Drain the pasta and add it directly to the soup.

Reheat the soup, stirring occasionally. Serve garnished with a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil and/or grated cheese.

Cannellini bean may be substituted if borlotti beans are unavailable. Cannellini beans are the typical bean used in the Tuscan version of Pasta e Fagioli.

Fish Chowder

We had some beautiful Halibut fillets in the freezer  and fish stock. I thought it was high time that we cooked them. The perennial questions is, of course, how should they be cooked. Wintery weather seems to me to demand stews and soups. So this fish would end up in Fish Chowder. I turned to Jasper White's Fifty Chowders  for inspiration and was not disappointed. His recipe calls for cod or pollack, but halibut makes a very fine substitute.

 FISH CHOWDER

(serves 8 as a main course)

1. 4 ounces meaty salt pork, rind removed, cut into 1/2 inch dice
   
2. 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
   
3. 2 medium onions (14 ounces) cut into 3/4-inch dice
   
4. 6 to 8 sprigs fresh thyme, leaves removed and chopped (1 tablespoon)
   
5. 2 dried bay leaves
   
6. 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
   
7. 3 cups fish stock or chicken stock
   
8. 2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and sliced 1/4 inch thick
   
9. Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
   
10. 3 cups whole milk
    
11. 3 pounds skinless halibut fillets, pinbones removed
    

Heat a four-to-six-quart heavy pot over low heat and add the diced salt pork. Once it has rendered a few tablespoons of fat, increase the heat to medium and cook until the pork is crisp and golden brown. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the cracklings to a small ovenproof dish, leaving the fat in the pot, and reserve until later.

Add the butter, onions, savory or thyme, and bay leaves to the pot and saute, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, for about 8 minutes, until the onions are softened but not browned. Add the flour and cook 1 minute more, stirring constantly. Add 1 cup of the stock and cook, stirring constantly, until the stock has thickened (it will be fairly thick). Add 1 more cup of stock and allow it to come back to a simmer again, stirring all the while. Add the last cup of stock and when the stock is once again simmering slowly, ad the potatoes. If the stock doesn't cover the potatoes, add just enough water to cover them.

Slowly simmer the potatoes, partially covered, for about 15 minutes, until tender; stir often to prevent sticking. Season the mixture assertively with salt and pepper (you want to almost overseason the chowder at this point, to avoid having to stir it much once the fish is added). Add the milk. When the milk is hot but not boiling, add the fillets and cook on low heat for 5 minutes, then remove from the heat and allow the chowder to sit for 10 minutes. (The fish will finish cooking during this time.)

Let the chowder sit for up to an hour at room temperature, allowing the flavors to blend.

When ready to serve, reheat the chowder over low heat, don't let it boil. Warm the cracklings in a low oven (200 degrees F) for a few minutes.

Use slotted spoon to mound he chunks of fish, the onions and potatoes in the center of large soup plates and ladle the creamy broth around. Scatter the cracklings over the individual servings and finish each with a sprinkling of chopped parsley and minced chives.

Velvety Chicken Pumpkin Soup

Susanna Foo is one of our country's truly imaginative chef's. She combines the techniques and ingredients of Chinese and French cooking to create dishes of great beauty and delicacy. She has an unerring palate for flavor combinations that are not run-of-the-mill and yet seem to have been made for each other. (Click on Susanna Foo in the categories list for more songs of praise to her culinary talent.)

This recipe is from her cookbook,Susanna Foo Fresh Inspiration.  If you like ginger as much as I do, you might be tempted to increase the amount that the recipe calls for--DON'T DO IT. This is perfect just the way it is and your guests will be congratulating you on your culinary genius.

VELVETY CHICKEN PUMPKIN SOUP

1. 4 ounces boneless, skinless chicken breast
2. 1 large egg white
3. 1 tablespoon vodka
4. 1 tablespoon cornstarch
5. 1 tablespoon soybean oil or corn oil
6. 2 shallots, minced
7. 2 tablespoons grated peeled fresh ginger
8. 1/2 kabocha squash (about a pound)--peeled,seeded and cut into small chunks (may substitute butternut squash)
9. 6 cups vegetable or chicken stock
10. 1 teaspoon cornstarch, mixed with 1 tablespoon water
11. 2 tablespoons butter
12. kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
13. chopped fresh chives, cilantro or chervil

Cut the chicken into 1-inch chunks. Finely grind using a meat grinder or a food processor, and place in a medium bowl. Mix the egg white, vodka, 2 tablespoons ice water, and the cornstarch in a small bowl, then add to the chicken and stir until thoroughly combined. Cover and refrigerate.

Heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook, stirring, until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Add the ginger and squash and cook, stirring for 1 minute. Pour in the stock, then stir in the 1 teaspoon cornstarch mixed with water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low and simmer, uncovered for 30 minutes or until the squash is very tender.

Add the butter to the soup and season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat and cool.

When it has cooled, puree the soup using a blender or food processor, in batches if necessary. The chicken mixture and the soup can be made up to 1 day ahead and kept covered in the refrigerator.

Just before serving, bring the soup to a boil, then turn the heat to very low. Slowly add the chicken mixture and stir until all the pieces are separated, then return the soup to a boil. Ladle into soup bowls, garnish with fresh herbs, and serve.

Martin Rios

Martin Rios is one of Santa Fe's finest chefs;  as a matter of fact,he may be one of the best chefs in the country. In spite of his loss to Bobby Flay on the Iron Chef, he is  always a winner to his many fans here in New Mexico. I first encountered his excellent food when he was the executive chef at The Old House in The El Dorado Hotel. When he went to the Inn of the Anaszi, we followed him there. We continued to stalk him when he was the chef at Geronimo's and now we can hardly wait until he opens his own restaurant, Restaurant Martin, later this month. We have made a reservation to celebrate Kay's birthday at the new digs. All of us, especially Martin, hope that he is open by then. 

Recently, Martin taught a class at Las Cosas Kitchen Shop and I was thrilled when there was space left so that I could attend.  Planing and executing a menu is so clearly a joy for him that you can't help sharing in his pleasure. And the food! Sublime is not too strong a word. 

We've all heard of chefs who are divas, but Martin Rios is one of the loveliest people you could ever hope to meet. His is a kind and generous spirit. Even when he is correcting your technique, you feel good. One of my measures of good people is that other people are made larger in their presence; Martin is such a person.

Martin working on a pastry crust.

Anne, John Vollertsen, Director of Las Cosas Cooking School and Martin Rios

One of the recipes we worked on was a Cucumber-Almond Gazpacho with Prawn Salad and Parmesan Crisp. This is a delicious recipe and one that you can easily add to your summer repertoire.

CUCUMBER-ALMOND GAZPACHO WITH PRAWN SALAD AND PARMESAN CRISP

(serves 4)

Cucumber-Almond Gazpacho

1. 1 shallot, chopped
   
2. 1 rib leek, chopped
   
3. 1 clove garlic, roasted
   
4. 1 rib celery, chopped
   
5. 1/2 cup green almonds (whole), can use blanched instead
   
6. 1 lime, juice only
   
7. 2 cups vegetable stock
   
8. 4 ounces white bread (no crust)
   
9. 2 English cucumbers, peeled and chopped
   
10. 1 cup green grapes
    
11. 2 tablespoons olive oil
    
12. Salt and pepper
    

In a medium size saute pan with a little oil, saute the first five ingredients until soft. Do not brown. Transfer the mixture into a bowl and chill. When ready, add the remaining ingredients to the now chilled mixture and place in a large blender. Puree by adding the olive oil slowly. Season with salt and pepper. Pass through a fine sieve.

Prawn Salad

1. 10 ounces prawns, cooked and medium dice
   
2. 2 tablespoons Mayonnaise
   
3. 1/2 Lemon, zest only
   
4. Chives, chopped
   
5. Tarragon (chopped)
   
6. 1/2 cup Jicama, small dice
   

Combine all of the ingredients together in a bowl and chill.

Parmesan Crisp

1/2 cup Parmesan cheese, grated

Spread the cheese on a cookie sheet and bake at 400 degrees for about 3 minutes or until golden brown