Bear Cuisine

Tamales

Christmas in New Mexico is almost synonomous with tamales. Making them is a family affair and many homes are filled with aroma of  cooking pork, chicken,green chile or red chile sauce and simmering masa in this season. Usually, I am fearless when it comes to trying new recipes; but, for some reason, tamales have intimidated me. They just seemed too daunting.

This fall we were graced by a visit from Kay's dear friend , Anne DeBois. Anne is a native Texan and a splendid cook. I knew she would have tamales down cold and asked her if she would take us through the process. She generously agreed and we have a wonderful couple of days making some pretty darned good tamales.

This recipe is a bit different from the norm in that it uses olive oil instead of lard. You will also note that with a few exceptions there aren't measurements given for the herbs. This is very much an outline of what to do rather than a precise pattern. You will need to taste as you go along; let your palate be your guide. The key to success here is to season at each step of the process. Don't be afraid of flavor.

PORK TAMALES

6 to 8 pound bone-in pork shoulder

2 onions, chopped

2 carrots, chopped

1 stalk celery, chopped

3 cups water

Pickled jalapenos

5 pounds fresh Masa without lard ( can use frozen if fresh is not available)

2 cups Masa Harina

4 teaspoons baking powder

Degreased Liquid from cooking pork

Ancho chile Powder

Mexican Oregano

Cumin, ground

Coriander, ground

Granulated Garlic

Salt

Olive Oil

Preparing the Meat

Coat the meat with salt, oregano, chile powder, ground cumin and granulated garlic. Brown on all sides.

This should take about 30 minutes. Put the meat in a slow cooker. Add the chopped onions ,carrots and celery Add 3 cups of water. Cook for 14 hours on a slow setting until the meat is tender. Remove from the liquid and let cool. Degrease the liquid. Save the liquid for mixing with the Masa.

Chop the meat fine. Add cumin, oregano, salt and chile powder to taste. Add 1-2 finely chopped pickled jalpenos to the mix. (Rinse the jalapenos before chopping.) Set aside until ready to make the tamales.

We used both packages in their entirety as we flavored throughout the process.

Meat as it is cooling.

Chopping the meat.

Mixing the herbs and spices into the meat mixture.

Preparing the masa.

Place the Masa in a large bowl. Add 2 tablespoons of salt to the masa. Mix masa and masa harina together. Add 4 ounces of olive oil per pound of Masa and mix together.

Grind the oregano in a mortar and pestle before using the masa mixture. 

Mix cumin, oregano  and granulated garlic into the masa ,masa harina , olive oil mixture. Mix well before adding the liquid.

Combine 2 ladles of chicken stock to 4 ladles of cooked pork liquid. Add to the masa mixture.

Use a light hand here, but mix together until the mixture sticks together. Anne used a hand-held electric mixer to mix everthing together.

Preparing the Corn Husks

Cut off the ends.

Rinse corn husks to remove any dirt.

Boil water in a large pan. Immerse the husks. Put a plate or other weight on top is necessary to keep the husks submerged Soak for 30 minutes.

Making the Tamales

Cover a table with newspaper. Provide smooth, clean surface (such as a cutting board) for each person making tamales.

Spread out a corn husk and spread about 3 tablespoons of masa evenly over the husk. Leave the edges of the husk clear and the leave about 1 1/2 to 2 inches at ends. Spread some of the meat  mixture, about 1 1/2 tablespoons, over the masa. Roll the corn husk until the masa and filling are completely enclosed. Fold over the ends of the corn husk and stack on a tray.

Maker package of six tamales. Wrap in light weight foil.

 

Take a roasting pan with a rack in it (I used a canning kettle) and arrange the packages , one sealed end resting on the rack, in the pan. Fill with water about 2/3's of the way up the packages.

Bring the water to a boil , reduce heat slightly and cook for approximately 1 1/2 hours. When checking to see if the tamales are done, look to see if there are white spots on the masa. If there are, they need to cook longer.

You can leave them in their foil packages and put them in the freezer to be eaten later.

 

 

Pasta e Fagioli

Christine Hickman has had several wonderful classes this winter. One of them included a fabulous recipe for this well-known Italian soup. I've thought about making this soup for what seems forever and now I finally have. This would make a great casual supper. Add bread, salad and a good bottle of wine and you're in business.

PASTA AND BEAN SOUP FROM THE VENETO

Pasta e Fagioli

(serves 6 to 8)

1. 12 ounces dried borlotti or cranberry beans, soaked overnight
2. 2 ounces pancetta, minced
3. 1 yellow onion, peeled and minced
4. 1/2 celery stalk, minced
5. 2 sprigs Italian parsley, trimmed and minced
6. 2 tablespoons tomato paste, or 2 fresh tomatoes, roughly chopped
7. 2 cloves garlic, crushed, peeled and minced 
8. 1 large sprig fresh rosemary
9. 2 fresh sage leaves
10. 6 1/2 cups cold water or half water and half low-sodium chicken broth
11. Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
12. 8 ounces small tubular pasta
13. 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigianao-Reggiano or Grana Padano
14. 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil for drizzling

Drain beans and put in a heavy pot. Add pancetta, onion, celery, parsley, tomato paste or tomato, garlic rosemary, sage and all the liquid. Bring to a boil over high heat then reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until bean are very tender, about 2 1/2 hours.

Transfer half the soup to a food processor and puree until smooth. If you have a blending wand, transfer half the soup to a bowl and puree the remaining soup in the pot. Stir the soup from the bowl or food processor back into the pot.

In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook the pasta al dente. the time depends on the type of pasta you are using. Drain the pasta and add it directly to the soup.

Reheat the soup, stirring occasionally. Serve garnished with a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil and/or grated cheese.

Cannellini bean may be substituted if borlotti beans are unavailable. Cannellini beans are the typical bean used in the Tuscan version of Pasta e Fagioli.

Arugula, Fennel and Apple Salad

 ARUGULA, FENNEL AND APPLE SALAD

(serves 4 to 6)

1. 2 small fennel bulbs, quartered, cored, thinly slice (about 4 cups)
   
2. 1 large Fuji apple (or Granny Smith), unpeeled, cored, thinly sliced
   
3. 2 cups packed washed and dried arugula leaves
   
4. 1/4 cup chopped Italian parsley
   
5. 1 cup thinly shaved Parmigianao-Reggiano cheese
   
6. 1/3 cup lightly toasted and skinned hazelnuts
   

• 3-4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
• 1 small shallot, minced
  
• 1 tablespoon Sherry wine vinegar
  

Mix the vinegar and shallot together in a small bowl.

Lightly mix fennel, apple, arugula and parsley together in a large bowl.

Then toss with enough extra-virgin olive oil to lightly coast the leaves.

Sprinkle with salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Toss.

Add the vinegar and shallot mixture and toss to coat. Adjust the seasoning if necessary.

Place the salad on plates and sprinkle with the toasted hazelnuts and shave cheese.

Thanks to Christine Hickman for this refreshing. light salad.

Arizona First Press Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Olives in AZ & a Visit to Queen Creek Olive Mill 

Olives were brought to Arizona from California in the 1800’s by missionaries.  They planted “Mission” olive trees along the way as a route marker. 

The climate and soil conditions in Arizona are perfect for both growing and harvesting a superlative crop from olive trees. Over the years, several hopeful olive oil proprietors started a business, but went “belly up”, while waiting out the 8 years necessary for the trees to produce a retail crop that could sustain their operation.  

In the late 1990’s that all changed. Perry Rea, tired of Michigan automotive life, and looking for a rural place to raise his 5 children, happened upon AZ.  He noticed olive trees, followed a hunch to move here to raise olives for canning, and subsequently began pressing olive oil as a hobby.

 Perry's olive oil pressing passion found favor with family, friends, and local chefs. It became his sole endeavor. Today he has a fully producing and expanding "boutique" orchard and mill operation in Queen Creek.  It is the first and only commercial olive oil operation in Arizona. One that wastes nothing, composts, is free of chemicals; has a superior product, and a bright future ahead. 

Some tidbits I gleaned on a tour of Perry's olive orchard & mill:
 
The US consumes most of the world’s olive oil, and produces only 1% of it. 

What is imported and how it is labeled is confusing to the consumer. Many imported olive oils list several countries where the oil may be from, or something vague like “bottled in Italy.”  In this situation, oils are mixed together from all or part of those countries.

There are no detailed standard govt. evaluations of imported oil.

The shelf life of olive oil, once bottled, is one year.

There is no such thing as extra virgin “light” olive oil.  Oil is not "diet”, and “light” likely is extra virgin combined with another oil.

Pure high quality olive oil must be not only Extra Virgin but First Press.  It is the first press where pretty much all of the oil is expressed from the crushed olive flesh and stone.  Subsequent presses include the already pressed remains plus additives such as extraction chemicals and heat and other inferior oil fillers.

Olive oil should not have an odor. Its’ taste is generally fruity, grassy, or peppery.  Batches can be customized by combining different olives by a Master olive blender.

Flavors are added to oil to camoflage an inferior product.

Intentionally added infusions of fruit, spices or herbs may be used to season first press extra virgin oil, and are not “flavors”.  An example of infused oils are the delicious Blood Orange, Mexican Lime, & White Truffle extra virgin first press olive oils created by Perry at the Queen Creek Olive Mill.

The bottom line for me?  

Read the label on olive oil before buying.  If it says anything but extra virgin first press, no matter what brand or price tag, you are getting a substandard product.  BUY LOCAL.

Check out Queen Creek Olive Mill for more information about olives, olive oil, health benefits; and to view their many olive and balsamic vinegar based products. Be sure to watch the very informative AZ Del Sol Foods video tour of QCOM (has 5 parts); and Discovery Channel’s video clips of both olive oil pressing and olive raking, filmed at QCOM.   Janet