Bear Cuisine

Au Pied Du Cochon

This bistro is just down the street from Dehillerin. It came into being when the Les Halles market was still in business and served the hard-working men and women who kept the market going. It is still open 24 hours a day and even though its patrons are no longer burly market workers, those who eat here bring hearty appetites and, I like to think, a zest for life. 

After our shopping expedition to Dehillerin, we needed some lunch. (Shopping is really hard work.) It seems there is always a table available and we were soon tucking into a great onion soup. Kay had escargots and I had some of the best beef marrow bones I have ever tasted. *

 

*If you have any doubts about marrow bones, you should Jennifer McLagan's Bones.    

A Southern Supper

This past weekend it was our turn to host our monthly (give or take a few weeks) Dining Club. We re  six very different folk united by our love of good food and a fascination with all aspects of growing and preparing it. We chose the theme of Southern Food; in part because it tastes so darned good and because it reflects both Kay's and my culinary roots. She hails from Texas (from Tyler and Houston) and I, from  Maryland's Eastern Shore.

Our menu for the evening was as follows.

Appetizers and Libations

Cheese Crackers

Shrimp Remoulade

Ramos Gin Fizz

Soup

      Carrot-Saffron Bisque with Spring Pesto

Entree

      Grits Cakes with Shrimp and Red Pepper Sauce

         Wedge with Buttermilk Blue Cheese Dressing

Dessert

          Blackberry Cobbler

Cheese Crackers and Shrimp Remoulade

CHEESE STRAWS

• 1 cup all-purpose soft-wheat flour*
• 1 cup grated New York sharp Cheddar cheese
• 3/4 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 1/4 cup butter
• 1 egg, beaten

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Mix together the flour, cheese, salt, and cayenne. Cut in the butter with a pastry blender or two forks until the mixture looks like corn meal. Add the beaten egg and stir. Knead until you can form a ball. if the dough seems dry, add a few drops of water. Place on a floured board and roll thin. Cut in finger-size strips and place on a lightly greased cookie sheet. Bake until lightly browned, 5 to 8 minutes.

* I used King Arthur regular all-purpose flour and the crackers turned out just fine. Instead of cutting the dough into strips, I used small cookie cutters to cut the dough into various shapes. Thus, crackers instead of straws.

(recipe from Nathalie Dupree's New Southern Cooking)

SHRIMP REMOULADE

3 cups or two pound shrimp (boiled and picked)

1 cup olive oil

1/2 cup tarragon vinegar

1 1/4 cups chopped celery

2 1/2 teaspoons chopped green pepper

2 tablespoons chopped onion

5 tablespoons chopped parsley

3/4 cup creole mustard or mustard and horseradish

2 1/2 teaspoons salt

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

1/4 cup paprika*

Mix all ingredients and let marinate in refrigerator for twenty-four hours, stirring often. Use as salad, or on toast or crackers.

*I use picante smoked Spanish paprika. It adds depth and heat to the flavor.

(recipe from Charleston Receipts)

RAMOS GIN FIZZ

• 1/4 ounce lemon juice
• 2 teaspoons superfine granulated sugar
• 1 egg white (2 TBS.)
• 1 dash vanilla
• 2 dashes orange flower water
• 2 ounces breakfast cream or milk
• 1 1/2 ounces gin

Shake together thoroughly and strain into an 8 ounce highball glass

(recipe from Brennan's New Orleans Cookbook)

Saffron Carrot Bisque with Spring Pesto

SAFFRON CARROT BISQUE WITH SPRING PESTO

(Serves 6)

• 4 tablespoons butter
• 4 medium carrots, peeled and cut into thin circles*
• 1 small red onion, roughly chopped
• 2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
• 3 cups chicken stock
• Pinch saffron
• 1 cup orange juice
• 2 tablespoons honey
• Salt and white pepper to taste
• Sourdough Croutons
• Spring Pesto

Melt butter in a large sauce pan.  Add the carrots, onion, and garlic and cook for 5 minutes. Add the stock and saffron and bring to a boil. Turn to simmer and cook until the carrots are completely softened, approximately 10 minutes. Remove from heat and cool slightly.

In batches, place all of the ingredients of the sauce pan into a blender and mix throughly, adding orange juice to thin.

Stir in the honey, and season to taste with salt and white pepper.

Serve warm with Sourdough Croutons and Spring Pesto

*I used 10 carrots to get the consistency of the soup that I desired.

SPRING PESTO

(makes about 2 quarts)

• 1 bunch flat leaf parsley, stemmed
• 1 bunch cilantro, stemmed
• 1 bunch mint, stemmed
• 1 1/2 cups feta cheese
• 1 1/2 cups Parmesan cheese
• 5 cloves garlic, minced and roughly chopped
• 3 tablespoons capers
• Juice and zest of three lemons
• 2 teaspoons red pepper flakes
• 2 cups olive oil

Place all the fresh herbs in a mixing bowl and toss.

Place half of the mixed herbs in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade. Add half of the remaining ingredients and process to a rough textured paste. Place prepared pesto into a storage container, re-attach bowl and blade and repeat. Store covered and refrigerated for up to 1 week. Mix thoroughly before serving.

This is great on pasta and in twice-baked potatoes. And it was marvelous in the bisque; the combination of flavors and textures was absolutely brilliant.

SOURDOUGH CROUTONS

(serves 6 to 8)

• 4 slices sourdough bread, cut into 1-inch cubes
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• Pinch each of: salt, black pepper, garlic powder (I used chile powder to good effect.)

Preheat oven to 325 degrees F.

In a mixing bowl, toss the bread cubes with the remaining ingredients. Spread out on an ungreased baking sheet and bake for fifteen minutes, tossing once, until toasted through.

Let cook then store in an airtight container for up to 3 days.

(recipes from Martha Phelps Stamps' Martha's at the Plantation. Seasonal Recipes from Belle Meade.)

Grits Cakes and Shrimp with Roasted Red Pepper Sauce

GRITS CAKES WITH SHRIMP AND ROASTED RED PEPPER SAUCE

(serves 8 as a starter, 4 as a main course)

Both the grits cakes and the sauce may be made ahead and reheated

• 4 cups cooked grits, cooked with 1 tablespoon of chopped garlic
• 1/2 cup extra-sharp cheddar cheese
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives
• 4 tablespoons butter, divided
• Hot pepper sauce to taste
• 1 1/2 cups chicken stock
• 3 red bell peppers, seeded and chopped
• 3 to 4 tablespoons red wine vinegar, sherry wine viegar, or balsami vinegar
• 3 tablespoons sugar
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 log goat cheese, sliced into 8 pieces
• 1 pound medium peeled and cooked shrimp
• 16 chives

Butter a 9x 5x 2 1/2-inch loaf pan and line it with parchment paper or aluminum foil. Stir the hot grits, cheese, chives and 2 tablespoons butter together. Season to taste with hot sauce. Pour the grits into the pan and refrigerate until chilled and firm.

Simmer the chicken stock and chopped peppers in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat for 10 minutes. Strain, reserving the liquid. Puree the peppers until smooth. Return them to the saucepan and add the vinegar, sugar, and served stock. Boil, stirring frequently, until thick and glossy. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

When ready to serve, unmold the grits and slice them into 8 grits cakes. (I use a biscuit cutter and cut them into round cakes.) heat the remaining butter in a heavy-bottomed non-stick frying pan over medium-high heat. Cook the grits cakes for 5 minutes on each side, or until golden and heated through. Put 1 grits cake on each plate, spoon the pepper sauce over each, and tope with a slice of goat cheese and several cooked shrimp. Garnish each with chives and serve.

(recipe from Natalie Dupree's Shrimp and Grits Cookbook)

Crispy Iceberg Wedge

CRISPY ICEBERG WEDGE

(serves 4)

• 1 head iceberg lettuce
• 4 pieces cooked bacon, crumbled
• 4 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and roughly chopped
• 2 cups Sourdough Croutons
• 1 cup Dania's Honduran Pickled Vegetables
• 8 ounces Blue Cheese Buttermilk Dressing

Trim lettuce of any wilty leaves, and cut into 4 wedges. Place each wedge on a separate plate and garnish with an equal amount of the remaining ingredients. Serve immediately.

DANIA'S HONDURAN PICKLED VEGETABLES

(makes 3 quarts)

• 1  cup trimmed green beans 
• 1 poblano pepper, cored and seeded, cut in strips 
• 9 stalks celery, cut in 2-inch strips
• 2 red onion, cut in strips
• 5 carrots, cut in 1/4 inch circles
• 3 medium beets, peeled and cut in 1/4- inch thick circles
• 3/4 cup sugar
• 2 teaspoons salt
• 1 tablespoon black peppercorns
• 1 tablespoon red pepper flakes
• 5 bay leaves
• 1 pint water
• 5 bay leaves
• 1 pint water
• 1/2 cup tarragon vinegar
• 4 green onions, trimmed and cut in thirds, lengthwise

Bring a large pot of water to boil. Turn off the heat and add the green beans, poblano pepper, celery, red onion and carrots. Let stand for 5 minutes. Drain and place the vegetables in a large mixing bowl.

In a smaller pot, place the beets with the sugar, salt, peppers, bay leaves and pint of water. Bring the mixture to boil and cook for 5 minutes. Pour the mixture over the reserved vegetables.

Add the vinegar, green onions and additional water as needed to cover the vegetables. let cook, cover and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks.

These pickles are wonderful. I love them for snacking. Ms. Stamps recommends their use in martini's. I think they would  also make great gifts at Christmas or any other gift-giving time.

BLUE CHEESE BUTTERMILK DRESSING

(serves 8 to 12)

Thicken this dressing up a bit and it's a fabulous dip for veggies--particularly blanched asparagus.

• 1 cup crumbled blue cheese
• 1/2 cup mayonnaise
• 1/2 cup sour cream
• 1/2 cup buttermilk
• 2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne

Place all the ingredients in a blender and mix well.

Store covered and refrigerated for up to 1 week.

(recipes from Martha's at the Plantation)

The remains of Blackberry Cobbler

BLACKBERRY COBBLER A LA MAUD

(serves 10)

• 2 cups soft-wheat flour
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 2 cups sugar
• 8 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1/2 to 2/4 cup buttermilk
• 4 cups small, tart blackberries
• 2 cups large, plump blackberries

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

To make the dough, sift the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt together, then mix in 1 cup of sugar until thoroughly blended. Cut the butter into small pieces. Spread them into the flour mixture so they aren't all in one clump. use your fingers to incorporate them until mostly blended. Sprinkle 1/2 cup of butter milk over the mixture, and use a large spatula to incorporate  into the dough, until it sticks together in a ball. Add more buttermilk in small amounts if needed.

Liberally butter a shallow 2-quart baking dish. Mix the small berries with 1 cup sugar and pour them into the baking dish. Spread the plumb berries over them.

Pinch off golf-ball-sized pieces of the dough, and place them on top of the berries, close together but not quite touching.The dough should cover the top, with little openings between the pieces. Bake 45 to 50 minutes, until the crust is puffy and a deep golden color on top. (the bottom of the crust will not be completely firm, giving a little bit of a pudding texture where the fruit meets the crust.) Allow to cool.

This dessert is best served just a little warm, but not hot. Because of the richness of the crust, ice cream or whipping cream is superfluous, and may actually detract from the flavor.

(recipe from Ronni Lundy's Butter Beans to Blackberries. Recipes from the Southern Garden.)

I received an e-mail this morning from one of our members who said "your meal was exquisite."

This message was music to my ears and cooking this dinner was nourishment for my soul.

A Spicy Birthday Party

On our last night in Philadelphia we celebrated David's birthday. He loves Indian food and doesn't often have it. So we decided that the best present we could give him was an Indian meal.

Our birthday boy

Saag Paneer (Homemade Cheese with Spinach)

SAAG PANEER

(6 servings)

• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
  
• 5 medium cloves garlic, finely chopped
  
• 2 Tablespoons finely chopped gingerroot
  
• 1 cup tomato sauce
  
• 1 tablespoon coriander seed, ground
  
• 1 teaspoon cumin seed, ground
  
• 1 teaspoon ground red pepper (cayenne)
  
• 1 teaspoon salt
  
• 2 packages (10 ounces each) frozen chopped spinach, thawed (do not drain)
  
• 2 cups 1/2-inch cubes fried Homemade Cheese
  
• 1/2 cup whipping cream
  
• 1 teaspoon Garam Masala  

  1.Heat oil in 3-quart saucepan over medium-high heat. Add garlic and gingerroot, stiry-fry 1 to 2 minutes or until garlic is golden brown.

2. Stir in tomato sauce, ground coriander, ground cumin, ground red pepper and salt; reduce heat to low. Partially cover and simmer 7 to 8 minutes or until thin film of oil starts to form on surface of sauce.

3. Stir in undrained spinach. Cover and simmer 8 to 10 minutes or until spinach turns a light olive green.

4. Stir in Homemade Cheese. Cover and simmer 3 to 4 minutes or until cheese is hot; remove from heat.

5. Stir in whipping cream and Garam Masala.

PANEER (HOMEMADE CHEESE)

(4 cups 1/2 inch cubes cheese)

1 gallon whole milk
1/4 cup white vinegar
Vegetable oil for deep-frying   
  

1. Heat milk to boiling in 6 -quart Dutch oven or stockpot over medium-high heat, stirring frequently to prevent scorching.

2. Stir in vinegar; remove from heat. The milk will immediately separate into curds(solids) and whey (liquid).

3. Line large colander with cheesecloth or muslin; place in sink. Pour curds and whey mixture into lined colander. Lift edges of cloth ; swirl in sink once or twice to remove excess liquid. Completely wrap curds in cloth; return to colander. Place a large jar, Dutch over or stockpot filled with water or similar weight directly on curds. Leave undisturbed in sink 5 to 6 hours to drain.

4. Remove weight and remove cheese to cutting board; discard cheesecloth. Cut cheese into 1/2-inch cubes. Cover and refrigerate at least 2 hours or up to 12 hours.

5. Heat oil (2 to 3 inches deep) in wok or Dutch over over medium-high heat until thermometer inserted in oil reads 300 degrees.

6. Add about half the cheese cubes to hot oil. Fry 4 to 5 minutes, turning occasionally, until light golden brown. Remove with slotted spoon; drain on paper towels. Repeat with remaining cheese cubes.

7.Tightly cover and refrigerate cheese up to 3 days or freeze up to 2 months.

GARAM MASAALA

The word garam in this blend (masaalal) means "warm" or "hot," an internal feeling felt while enjoying dishes originating from the northern states of India that include these spices.

• 1 tablespoon cumin seed
• 1 teaspoon cardamom seeds (removed from pods)
• 1/2 teaspoon whole cloves
• 1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns
• 2 dried bay leaves
• 2 three-inch sticks cinnamon, broken

1. Heat 6-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Place all spices in skillet, and roast 2 to 3 minutes,stirring constantly, until seeds crackle, spices turn one shade darker and the mixture has a nutty, sweet aroma. Transfer to a bowl and cool 3 to 5 minutes.

2. Place roasted spice blend in spice grinder. Grind until mixture looks like the texture of finely ground pepper. Store in an air-tight container at room temperature for up to 1 month; beyond that it will start to lose its full flavor.

(recipes from Raghavan Iyer's Betty Crocker's Indian Home Cooking)

The cheese is really very easy to make and we usually have some in the freezer for those times when we crave Saag Paneer. if you don't want to expend the effort to make your own spice blend, you can cheat and use one that is already made up. I use Garam Masaala from Ajika whose spices can be found at ajika.com

Spicy Ginger-Garlic Shrimp with Coconut Milk and Cilantro Leaves

SPICY GINGER-GARLIC SHRIMP WITH COCONUT MILK AND CILANTRO LEAVES

(serves 12/ can easily be cut in half)

• About 1 cup vegetable oil
• 4 pounds jumbo shrimp, peeled, shells reserved
• 1/2 cup unsweetened coconut milk
• 4 tablespoons grated fresh ginger
• 4 generous tablespoons minced garlic
• 1 1/2 tablespoons tamarind paste (also called tamarind concentrate)
• 2 tablespoons ground coriander seed
• 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 1/2 teaspoon hot Indian chile powder or cayenne, or more to taste
• 2 tablespoons kosher salt
• 1 cup chopped cilantro leaves
• 2 tablespoons amchoor powder (or substitute 1 more tablespoon of tamarind paste)
• 8 small green chiles, such as Thai bird chiles, seeded and very finely minced

1. heat 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil in a large pot over medium-high heat until smoking. Add the shrimp shells and cook, stirring regularly, for 4 minutes. Add water to just cover the shells and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a brisk simmer and cook until the liquid is reduced to 1 cup, about 35 to 45 minutes. Strain into a bowl through a sieve, pushing hard on the solids with a wooden spoon to release their flavor. Add the coconut milk to the shrimp broth and set aside.

2. Combine 4 tablespoons of vegetable oil with 2 tablespoons of ginger, all of the minced garlic, the tamarind paste, ground coriander, ground turmeric, chile powder, salt and 1/2 cup of the cilantro in a large bowl. Add the shrimp and toss well to coat. Set aside for 10 minutes to marinate.

3. Place 3 tablespoons of vegetable oil in each of two large skillets set over medium-high heat. When the oil just begins to smoke, add one-quarter of the shrimp to each skillet; sear the shrimp on one side until lightly browned at the edges, no more than 1 1/2 minutes. Quickly turn the shrimp over and sear the second side until lightly browned, about 1 1/2 minutes more; remove the shrimp to a bowl and reserve. Repeat with the remaining shrimp, adding more oil if necessary. When this batch has browned on both sides, leave it in the skillet. Reduce the heat to medium-low and divide the first batch of browned shrimp between the two skillets (along with any liquid).

4. If there's any remaining shrimp marinade, whisk it into the reserved shrimp-coconut broth.

5. Working quickly over medium heat, divide the reserved shrimp-coconut broth, the amchoor powder, green chilies, and the remaining 2 tablespoons of ginger between the skillets, stirring well to coat the shrimp. Bring to a simmer and let the mixture thicken slightly, no more than 2 minutes. Taste for salt and serve immediately, garnished with the remaining cilantro leaves.

Deep-Fried Cauliflower with Chile and Tomatoes

DEEP-FRIED CAULIFLOWER WITH CHILE AND TOMATOES

(serves 12/can easily be cut in half)

• 1/2 cup ghee or clarified butter
• 3 tablespoons grated ginger
• 6 large cloves garlic, minced
• 1 tablespoon mild Indian chili power (or 2 3/4 teaspoons sweet paprika mixed with 1/4 teaspoon cayenne)
• 1 tablespoon ground coriander
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin seed
• 3 (28-ounce) cans tomatoes
• 1 tablespoon kosher salt
• 1 1/2 teaspoons sugar
• Vegetable oil for frying
• 4 to 5 pound cauliflower (about 3 heads), broken into 1- to 1 1/2-inch pieces
• 2 to 3 teaspoons fresh lime juice (optional)

1. Heat two large skillets over medium heat and divide the ghee or clarified butter between them. Divide the ginger, garlic, chili powder, coriander, cumin, and cinnamon between the skillets and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. With your hands, crush the tomatoes, divide between the skillets, and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened slightly but still quite "saucy," about 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.

2. Fill  heavy, high-sided pot with vegetable oil to a depth of 2 inches. Heat the oil to 360 degrees F.

Fry the cauliflower in batches until pale golden in color but still crisp-tender inside, between 4 and 8 minutes, depending on the size of your batches and cauliflower pieces. As the pieces finish cooking, drain on paper towels, then toss them in a bowl. Sprinkle with salt. Transfer the cauliflower to the tomato sauce, dividing it equally between the skillets.

3. Bring the tomato sauce and cauliflower to gently simmer and cook, stirring regularly, until the cauliflower is very tender and the sauce has thickened considerably, about 20 minutes. Stir in the lime juice to taste, if you care to, and taste for salt. Serve hot or at room temperature.

(recipes from David Rosengarten Entertains)

Chicken in Onion Tomato Gravy (Murgh Masala)

MURGH MASALA

(serves 8)

• 2 three-pound chickens cut into 8-10 pieces each
• 10 tablespoons light vegetable oil
• 5 cups thinly sliced onions
• 6 cups thinly sliced onions
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped garlic
• 3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh ginger root
• 2 cinnamon sticks, 3 inches long
• 4 black (or 8 green) cardamom pods
• 1 tablespoon turmeric
• 1 teaspoon red pepper
• 2 1/2 cups pureed or finely chopped fresh ripe tomatoes or 2 cups drained canned tomatoes, chopped
• 1 tablespoon Kosher salt
• 2 cups boiling water
• 1 tablespoon ground roasted cumin seeds
• 3 to 4 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves

1. Cut off the wing tips and pull the skin away from the chicken pieces, using a kitchen towel to get a better grip.(Reserve wing tips and skin for the stockpot).

2. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large (5-quart) heavy-bottomed pan, preferably one with a non-stick surface, over high heat. When the oil is very hot, add the chicken pieces, a few at a time, qnd sear them until they lose their pink color and get nicely browned on all sides (about 3 to 4 minutes). Remove them with a slotted spoon and reserve them in a bowl. Continue with the rest of the chicken pieces until all of them are seared.

3. Add the remaining 8 tablespoon of oil to the pan, along with the onions. Reduce heat to medium-high and fry the onions until they turn light brown (about 3o minutes), stirring constantly to prevent burning. Add garlic and ginger, and fry for an additional 5 minutes. Add cinnamon and cardamon, and continue frying until the spices are slightly puffed and begin to brown (about 2 minutes). Add turmeric and red pepper and stir rapidly for 10-15 seconds. pureed or chopped tomatoes, along with the chicken, salt, and two cups of boiling water. Stir to mix, reduce heat and simmer, covered, until chicken is cooked and very tender and the gravy has thickened (about 45 minutes). If the gravy has not thickened adequately, increase heat and boil rapidly, uncovered, unit thickens to the consistency of a beef stew. If, on the other hand, the evaporation is too fast, add a little water. Check frequently during cooking to ensure that the sauce is not burning. The finished dish should have plenty of thick pulpy gravy. turn off heat, and let the dish rest, covered, for at least 1 hour, preferably 2, before serving. When ready o serve, heat thoroughly, fold in roasted cumin and chopped coriander, check for salt, and serve.

Note:This is a typical example of stewing meat. Like all stews it improves with keeping. It can be kept in the refrigerator for up to 2 days or frozen.

(recipe from Julie Sahni's Classic Indian Cooking)

Of course, there was basmati rice and several freshly-prepared chutneys. We paired this dinner with an off-dry Riesling which complemented the food very nicely.

Happy Birthday David!

The Striped Bass

Another great restaurant in Philadelphia is The Striped Bass. The interior speaks of Old Philadelphia, tastefully opulent; but the decor is, at the same time, distinctly modern.The dining room is large with dark woods, marble columns and beautiful chandeliers. It is ,as Tina said on our recent dinner there, "The Temple of fish." Over the kitchen, which you can see from your table, is a huge metal sculpture of a bass, the veritable god of all bass. Underneath, his acolytes and priests offer magnificent sacrifices to propitiate hungry worshippers.

Chef Guillermo Tellez directs his cooks in the preparation and plating of his wonderful creations.

Since none of us had been to this restaurant before, we decided to put ourselves in the hands of the chef and ordered the tasting menu. What an intelligent choice that proved to be. Although I suspect that there isn't a weak dish on the menu.

                

Our amuse bouche was the Spicy Tuna Tartare served with Avocado Pure, Yuzu Cream, and Potato Tuile.

This was one of my favorites in this sublime ode to fish. The tuna was so tender that it practically melted in your mouth and the play of flavors with the avocado and yuzu certainly had my mouth laughing with pleasure. This was served with Demi Sec, Gruet from New Mexico. The pairing was inspired and, of course, we loved drinking a wine from our home state.

Jumbo Lump Crab Cannelloni with Savoy Cabbage , Carrot-Cardamon and Vanilla Vinaigrette

This was absolutely the perfect combination of flavors and textures. Every bite was a chorus of perfection.

The wine served with this course was the best pairing of the evening. Both the wine- a Macabeo, Pirineos, Somontano, Spain, 2006--and the food tasted better in each other's company.

Black Sea Bass with Crispy Yucca, Lemon Garlic Vinaigrette, Picked Vegetables.

The texture of the vegetable and the fish complemented each other and the balance of sweet, salty, hot and sour was just right. The wine served with this dish--Viognier, les Collines, Cote du Rhone, France, 2006-- was our least favorite. It seemed to us to lack character and body and didn't highlight the flavors of the food particularly well.

Organic Scottish Salmon with Rotatouille, Soy-Bacon Vinaigrette, Green Lentils. 

This was Tina's favorite and we also liked it. I would never have thought of putting lentils together with salmon, but the heartiness of the fish combined perfectly with these legumes. The Merlot (Esser Vineyards, Central Coast, California, 2007) paired nicely with this course.

Southern Atlantic Sea Bass with Truffled White Sweet Potato Organic Golden Beets, Shallot Brulee.

This was my third favorite item on this menu. The fish was almost the Platonic ideal of fish --the perfect taste and texture of just-caught fish. The Pinot Noir (Summerland Winery, Santa Barbara, California, 2006) highlighted the excellence of the fish and its accompaniments.

Apricot Sponge Cake with Ganache, Chocolate Marquise.

I loved this dessert and I'm not a a great lover of desserts. The sponge cake was incredibly light; we all could have eaten more of it--something we didn't think was possible after the gorgeous meal we had just enjoyed. Pastry chef, Richard Angelillo, proved that the last is the best. This was served with a Moscato d'Asti (Pia Cesare, Italy, 2006). What can I say? Sweet calls to sweet.

Finally, a restaurant can have a fabulous chef and still fall short of the mark if the service is less than stellar. The service at The Striped Bass compares with the best anywhere--flawless and perfectly paced, knowledgeable without being condescending or patronizing, attentive without cloying obsequiousness. This place gets my five star rating without any qualifications.

Tina and Anne after this splendid meal. Happy campers, indeed!

Striped Bass

1500 Walnut Street. Center City

www.stripedbassrestaurant.com

National Garlic Day

As far as I'm concerned,every day should be Garlic Day. I can't imagine cooking without it and I genuinely grieve for friends who are allergic to it. My mother rarely used garlic in her cooking; to her it was probably classed as an exotic ingredient used in ethnic cooking. I can't remember when I first tasted it, but I do remember that it was love at first bite.

Garlic was grown in the Middle East as far back as the third century B.C.E. Because it grew easily, garlic was cheap and widely used by cooks of every class. A head of garlic made up part of the daily ration of the Roman soldier because it was thought to create a strong fighting force. (The Contemporary Encyclopedia of Herbs and Spices)

Garlic has even inspired poetry.

ALLIODE

OH GARLIC(ANGLO-SAXON)!
OH ALLIUM SATIVUM (LINNEAN)!
RUSTIC'S HEAL-ALL
SENT FROM HEAVEN.

YOU ARE THE PEASANT'S CAMPHOR
AND STINKING ROSE OF MIRTH
DIVINE STAPLE OF LAUGHTER
SACRED HERB OF D'EARTH.

OH SERPENTS WEEED
YOU ARE YET HOLY
ABOVE ALL HERBS INDEED
AND DETESTED ONLY
BY THOSE (UNCONFESSED)
WHO IGNORANT, LACK A NOSE
FOR WHAT IS BEST DIGESTED!

AND HOWEVFR ACCURSED AND PROFANE
YOU CROP UP AGAIN AND AGAIN
IN EVERY LANGUAGE KNOWN
IN EVERY NATION GROWN. . . .

ALLIUM S., ALLIUM EST!
ALLIUM YES, ALLIUM BEST!

(Lloyd J Harris in The Book of Garlic)

One of the first recipes I remember trying after falling in love with the Stinking Rose was Forty Clove Chicken.

FORTY-CLOVE CHICKEN--HERMETICALLY SEALED

There are many chicken dishes that call for 40 or more cloves of garlic. The garlic can be stuffed into the whole bird with other ingredients. Don't let the amount of garlic scare you; the garlic, after prolonged cooking has a mild, nutty flavor, and thus these chicken recipes are known as "pistaches" in France.

2/3 cup olive oil
4 stalks celery
1 tablespoon tarragon
salt
freshly ground pepper
freshly grated nutmet
1 2 lb. chicken
40 cloves garlic
1/3 cup cognac
1/4 cup flour
water
fried toast

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Pour olive oil into large casserole. To oil add the celery which has been cut into thin strips, parsley and tarragon. Sprinkle salt and pepper and nutmeg over the chicken which has been cut into quarters. Add chicken to oil and vegetable mixture turning to coat the pieces thoroughly. Add garlic, cognac and 1/2 teaspoon salt.

Add to flour enough water to make stiff paste. Cover the casserole with the lid and make a hermetic seal by spreading flour and water paste on edges of lid and and casserole. Completely cover the top with aluminum foil. Bake the casserole for 1 1/2 hours at 375 degrees. Do not remove the top until ready to serve at the table. Serve with fried toast on which the garlic sauce can be spread. Serves 4
(from The Book of Garlic)

Another favorite is Garlic Mayonnaise otherwise known as Sauce Aioli

SAUCE AIOLI

To prepare 1 cup of aioli, peel 3 medium-size cloves of garlic and work them into a smooth paste with a pinch of coarse salt in a mortar and pestle. If a mortar and pestle are not available, finely chop the garlic and then crush it on a cutting board with side of a chef;s knife. Combine the garlic paste with 2 egg yolks and gradually work 1 cup of extra virgin olive oil into the mixture. if using a mortar and pestle, do this directly in the mortar. Add 1 tablespoon or more of lemon juice or water to the mayonnaise after adding half the oil, to prevent the mayonnaise from becoming too thick.

Although garlic mayonnaise is traditionally prepared directly in a mortar while the oil is gently worked in with the pestle, modern recipes frequently suggest using a blender, electric mixer or hand whisk. Olive oil is a surprisingly fragile substance and will often turn bitter if beaten or overworked. When using extra virgin olive oil, work it into the yolks with a wooden spoon if a mortar and pestle are not available.
(from James Peterson's Sauces)