Bear Cuisine

Quick Fried Rice

This is another great side dish from Susan Spicer. I've given another recipe for fried rice on this blog, but this recipe is our new favorite. It has bright fresh flavors and it's easy to prepare. We had it as a side for a glazed salmon filet. A perfect companion to the fish.

QUICK-FRIED RICE

1. 2 teaspoons canola, peanut or olive oil
2. 2 eggs, lightly beaten with a fork
3. Salt
4. 1 medium carrot, split in half lengthwise and cut thinly on a diagonal
5. 1 cup cabbage, spinach, bok choy or other greens thinly sliced
6. 2 garlic cloves, minced
7. 3 cups cooked white rice
8. 1 bunch scallions *white and green parts) thinly sliced
9. 2 tablespoons soy sauce
10. Sesame oil, as desired
11. Pepper

Heat 1 teaspoon oil over medium-high heat in a medium nonstick skillet until almost smoking. Pour in the eggs and a pinch of salt and scramble with a plastic spatula for a minute, then let the eggs set. Stir and lift to make sure the eggs are cooked and no liquid remains, then transfer to a plate and cool. Coarsely chop the eggs and set aside.

Wipe out the skillet, put in the carrot and 1/4 cup water and lower the heat to medium. Simmer the carrot for 3 minutes, until tender-crisp. Raise the heat to medium high, pour off any remaining water, add the remaining teaspoon oil, the cabbage, and garlic and toss. When the greens are wilted, add the rice and eggs and stir over medium-high heat. Stir in the scallions and soy sacue and a drop or two of sesame oil. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.

Avoglemono

This light and brothy Greek soup is one of my favorites. It makes a perfect first course for a roasted leg of lamb to follow. It is easy to make and can be served hot or cold.

  

GREEK EGG-LEMON SOUP

(6 servings)

• 4 cups chicken broth
• 1/2 cup raw rice
• 2 eggs
• juice of 2-3 lemons
• freshly chopped parsley
• Salt and pepper to taste

Bring the broth to a simmer with the rice. Partially cover the pot and simmer until the rice is done, approximately 20 minutes. Whisk together the eggs, lemon juice and parsley. Pour the simmering broth into the egg mixture, stirring constantly. Make sure that the eggs are well combined with the broth.

Paris Mushroom Soup

When I was buying ingredients for the braished pork dish, I over-bought mushrooms. I searched for a soup recipe and found this one from Dorie Greenspan's Around My French Table. It is delicious and soul satisfying.

 

 

PARIS MUSHROOM SOUP

(makes 6 servings)

For the Soup

1. 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2. 1 1/2 large onions, coarsely chopped
3. 3 large garlic cloves, split, germ removed and coarsely chopped
4. Salt and freshly ground white pepper
5. 1 1/2 pounds white mushrooms, wiped clean, trimmed and sliced
6. 1/3 cup dry white wine
7. 2 parsley sprigs
8. 1 rosemary sprig
9. 6 cups chicken broth

 

For the Salad

1. 6 large white mushrooms, wiped clean and trimmed and thinly sliced
2. 2 scallions, white and light green parts only, thinly sliced
3. 2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
4. 1 tablespoons minced fresh chives
5. Salt and freshly ground white pepper

Creme fraiche , for serving

To Make the Soup: Melt one tablespoon of the butter in a large dutch oven or soup pot over low heat. Toss in the onions and garlic, season wth salt and white pepper and cook, stirring often for about 5 minutes, until the vegetables are soft. Add the mushrooms and the remaining tablespoon of butter raise the heat to medium and cook, continuing to stir for another 3 minutes or so, until the mushrooms release their liquid. Increase the heat to high and cook until almost all of the liquid evaporates. Pour in the wine and let it boil until it, too, almost evaporates.

Toss the herbs into the pot, add the broth and bring to a boil. Lower the heat, cover the pot almost completely and cook at a gentle simmer for 20 minutes. Pull out the rosemary sprig.

Working in small batches in a blender or food processor, puree the soup until it is very smooth; or use an immersion blender. Taste for salt and pepper. Pour the soup back into the pot and heat it gently. It shouldn't boil, but it should be very hot.

To make the salad and serve: Divide the mushrooms, scallions, parsely and chives among six soup plates; season lightly with salt and pepper. Ladle the soup into the bowls and top each witha dollop of creme fraiche.

Ragout de porc, chasseur

 

Among my favorites of Julia Child's many cookbooks is From Julia Child's Kitchen. It is a more personal book than Mastering the Art of French Cooking, filled with personal anecdotes and her unqiue perspective on what makes for good food and good cooking. If you know her voice, you can hear it throughout. She teaches with the zeal of a revivalist preacher and she,long ago, converted me to the gospel of good food.  Here is some of her advice and counsel from her introduction.

"Learn how to cook! That's my invariable answer when I am asked to give forth  with money-saving recipes, economy tips, budget gourmet dinner menus for six people under ten dollars, and the like. Learn how to cook! That's the way to save money. You don't save it buying hamburger helpers, and prepared foods; you save it buying fresh foods in season or in large supply, when they are cheapest and usually best, and your prepare them from scratch at home. Why pay for someone else's work, when if you know how to do it, you can save all that money for yourself?"

This recipe uses a boneless shoulder of pork which we happened to have in the freezer. So, I felt doubly virtuous as I was cooking it. It is always satisfying to use provisions stored up for the winter. For some reason It makes me feel as if I have provided very well for the family.

BRAISED CUBED PORK WITH TOMATOES, HERBS, AND MUSHROOMS

(serves 6 people)

1. 2 1/2  boneless shoulder of pork, cut into cubes approximately 1 1/2 inches across
2. Dry Marinade
3. 2 or more tablespoons rendered pork fat, olive oil or peanut oil
4. 1 1/2 to 2 cups thinly sliced onions
5. 1/2 cup dry white wine or dry white French Vermouth
6. 3 to 4 ripe red tomatoes, peeled, seeded, juiced, and chopped
7. 2 cups fresh mushrooms
8. 1 teaspoon lemon juice and 1 tablespoon butter for simmering the mushrooms
9. Salt and pepper as need
10. To thicken the sauce: 1 to 2 tablespoons cornstarch of potato starch blended with 2 tablespoons wine
11. 1/4 cup or more heavy cream or creme fraiche
12. Fresh minced parsely

 

For the Dry Marinade

• 2 teaspoons salt
• 1/8 teaspoon allspice
• 1/2 teaspoon thyme or Provencal seasoning
• 2 or 3 large cloves of garlic, pureed

Marinating the pork. This takes 20 minutes while you are assembling the rest of the ingredients or 1 to 2 days, if you wish. Place the pork in an enameled or stainless mixing bowl, add the marinade ingredients and stir vigorously with a rubber spatula to be sure all piece are well covered. Let stand, turning occasionally (or cover and refrigerate), until you are ready to begin cooking.

Browning the pork. If pork has exuded its juices during the marinade, dry in paper towels (reserve juices). Film a large frying pan or electric skillet with 1/16 inch of rendered fat or of oil, heat to very hot but not smoking, add as many pieces of pork as will fit comfortably in one layer, and brown lightly on all sides; remove browned pieces and add fresh pieces until all are browned. Tilt pan and spoon out browning fat. Stir in the sliced onions and toss with the pork for several minutes to brown lightly.  You may now transfer the meat and onions to a casserole to finish cooking. In this case, deglaze the frying pan with the wine--meaning, pour in wine and scrape into it all coagulated brown pan juices, and pour this into the casserole.

Braising the pork: 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Stir the tomatoes into the pork and onions, as well as any marinade juices, turning and tossing the meat to blend ingredients. Bring to the simmer, cover, and simmer slwoly either in a 325-degree over or on top of the stove Meat will exude juices as it cooks; turn and baste every 15 minutes or so. It will take 1 to 1/2 hours, depending on the cut and its initial tenderness, and it is done when a fork pierces it farily easily; do not overcook.

Stewed mushrooms. While pork is cooking, trim and wash mushrooms, quarter them and place in a small saucepan with the lemon juice, butter and a pinch of salt. Add 1/4 cup of water, cover pan and simmer 3 minutes. Pour the juices into the simmering pork and reserve the mushrooms for later.

Finishing the ragout. Skim any fat off of the accumulated cooking juices and you will probably want to thicken them unless they have reduced and thickened naturally. To do so, blend some of the hot juices into the starch and wine mixture, then pour this back into the ragout. Add the mushrooms, set over moderate heat and simmer, basting meat with juices, for several minutes until the sauce thickens and the starch cooks. Taste carefully for seasoning and then, still simmering, add the cream.

 

May be cooked ahead and slowly reheated for 5 minutes or so before serving.

Torta Cubano

One of the best features of Pro's Ranch is that you can get a great breakfast or lunch there. Grocery shopping as gustatory adventure is my idea of a good time. The last time we were there we had a Torta Cubano--a Cuban Sandwich. This tasty combination of cheese, roast pork and ham is truly delicious.

In case you want to make it yourself, I offer David Rosengarten's version for your delectation.

TORTA CUBANO

(1 sandwich)

1. 1 tablespoon mayonnaise
2. 1 tablespoon prepared yellow mustard
3. 1 Cuban Sandwich Loaf or any French or Italian hero bread that's about 8 inches long)
4. 4 thin slices Swiss cheese
5. 4 thin slices boiled ham
6. 2 slices dill pickle (lengthwise)
7. 4 ounces thinly sliced roast pork
8. 1 1/2 tablespoon softened butter

In a small bowl, combine mayonnaise and mustard. Set aside.

Cut the ends from the bread, then split lengthwise into two halves. Layer fillings on one half as follows: half the mayonnaise/mustard, 2 slices of the cheese, the ham, pickles and roast pork and the remaining 2 slices of cheese. Spread the remaining mayonnaise/mustard on the other half of the bread. Close the sandwich.

Heat a large cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Brush the outside of sandwich on both sides with butter. Place sandwich flat side down in skillet. Using another heavy skillet, press straight down on the sandwich to flatten it. Place a folded kitchen towel in the top skillet while pressing if it gets too hot. Press until roasted, about 2 minutes. Flip and press the other side to toast, about another 2 minutes. Remove. Cut at the center on an angle. Serve immediately.

The key to getting this sandwich right is the bread. If you buy the bread don't get rolls that are dense. The classic Cuban sandwich bread is fluffy inside, with a little crackle in the thin crust. If the bread isn't freshly baked, it is best to recrisp it in a 350 degree oven for two to three minutes. Of you can make your own using the following recipe.

CUBAN SANDWICH LOAF

(makes 8 rolls)

1. 5 3/4 cups bread flour, plus extra for handling dough
2. 1 cup minus 1 tablespoon water
3. 1 tablespoon rapid-rise (instant) yeast
4. 2 tablespoon sugar
5. 1 tablespoon kosher salt
6. 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for greasing bowl and pans
7. Cornmeal for dusting
8. Handful of ice cubes

Place the 5 3/4 cups flour, the water, yeast, sugar, salt and the 2 tablespoons of olive oil in the large bowl of a standard mixer fitted with a dough-hook attachment.

Mix the ingredients on very low speed until they are well combined. Increase the mixer speed to medium-high and mix the dough until thoroughly kneaded, about 8 minutes.

Lightly grease a large bowl with olive oil. Remove the ball of dough from the mixer bowl to the oiled bowl. Cover the bowl and place it in a warm spot until the dough ball has doubled in size, about 1 hour.

Lightly flour a rolling pin and a countertop with extra flour. Remove the risen dough to the counter. Using the rolling pin, flatten the dough to expel all the gases that have developed inside.

Using a knife, divide the large dough ball into smaller dough pieces so that each is a little larger than a baseball. You should have about 8 pieces. Place the pieces on the countertop so that they are not touching each other. Cover the with a damp cloth and let them rest for 15 minutes.

Sprinkle another part of the countertop with flour and lightly flour your hands. Roll your palms over the pieces of dough and move them in a back-and-forth motion to shape the dough pieces into 6-inch-long cylinders. Continue until all the rolls are shaped. Place the shaped rolls on a cornmeal-dusted baking sheet about 2 inches apart. Cover the rolls with plastic wrap and let them sit until doubled in size, about 1 1/2 hours.

Place a baking stone on the center oven rack. Place an overproof baking pan on the bottom of the oven. Preheat oven to 425 degrees.

Dust a pizza peel with cornmeal. Place 4 of the rolls on the pizza peel at a time. Use a razor blade or a serrated knife to score the top of each loaf lengthwise in a straight line down the center, cutting them approximately 1/2 inch deep. Spray the loaves with water using a spray bottle. Carefully toss some of the ice cubes into the overproof pan in the bottom of the oven. Use the peel to slide the loaves onto the baking stone and immediately close the oven door. Repeat these steps again until all of the rolls are in the oven.

Bake the rolls for 15 minutes, or until they are light golden brown.(They should have an internal temperature of about 200 degrees) Using the pizza peel, remove the loaves from the oven and allow to cool completely before serving.