Bear Cuisine

Perigueux

Perigueux is the largest city in the Perigord and one of the largest urban conservation areas in France.We spend a very pleasant, albeit rainy, morning wandering the narrow, winding streets near the Cathedral  perusing the outdoor markets.

Walnut Oil made from one of the region's prominent crops

Jesus might have had the French in mind when he taught the disciples to pray "Give us this day our daily bread." Every town, no matter how small, has at least one boulangerie and sometimes more than one. A meal isn't complete without bread. Another thing to like about how the French choose to live.

Les Jardins de suspendus de Marqueyssac

If I had to name a favorite kind of garden, it would be the English Cottage Garden. I love the riot of color and the variety of flowers that it provides. But on this trip I developed a new appreciation for the beautifully manicured, architecturally perfect French garden.

These gardens are in the 19th century garden style combining trimmed boxwoods offering a maze-like walk and rambling woodland paths. The park is situated on a spur that overlooks the entire Dordogne Valley and offers gorgeous panoramic views of Perigord. The position is what gives the garden its name--"overhanging gardens." You could easily spend hours walking in this serene setting. Another great spot for a picnic.

  




     

Truffle Hunting

Perhaps the most-prized product of the Perigord is the Black Truffle (Tuber melanosporum). Poets, chefs and gourmands have all been fascinated by the flavor and aroma of this fungus. Truffles have always been expensive, but now that their availability has decreased by 60 percent from the beginning of the twentieth century, they are truly out-of-sight -literally and figuratively.

Efforts are being made to increase truffle production and one of our most fun mornings was a visit to Edouard Aynaud, a truficulteur, in Saint Cyprien. Passionate and extremely knowledgeable about his subject, Edouard took us truffle hunting with his dog who won every one's heart with his beautiful face and friendly tail wags. Most important for Edouard, the dog has a talent for finding truffles and, unlike the pigs that used to be used for finding these earthy treasures, he won't eat his discoveries.

For a detailed discussion of truffle production and cultivation, I recommend Stephanie Alexander's Cooking and Traveling in South-West France.

Truffe en Perigord

Pechalifour

24220 Saint Cyprien

France

www.truffe-perigord.com

Duck Decoupage

I don't think I've ever written a post that needed a rating; but, perhaps, this one needs a warning. If you are one who is a bit squeamish, that is, you find cutting up a chicken disquieting, you need read no further. Otherwise, press on.

If you mention decoupage to Americans of a certain age,they will immediately conjure up a picture of a crafts project with pieces of cut-out pictures pasted and shellacked onto a piece of plywood. In French culinary-speak, however, decoupage means slicing or carving. 

Robert and Wendely , our hosts at La Combe, had arranged for Mme Michelle Boyer to show us how a foie gras duck is carved up. If you have ever cut up a whole chicken, the basic procedure will be quite familiar. What is not so customary for most Americans ( and, apparently, Australians) is to use every single part of the fowl. Nothing goes to waste and a typical French cook will see and use parts that we, in our overly sanitized cooking world, never encounter.

When have you seen the head attached to a chicken that your purchased at the market?

The duck's tongue is considered a delicacy.

Some parts are reserved for a treat for the cat, some are used for grellons, some are used to make a sauce.

Some parts are used to make confit.

 Duck breasts can be cooked just like a steak.

The prized liver. This one was used to make a beautiful, buttery terrine. 

La Ferme des Cent Ecus

In the Dordogne, signs for farmhouse-inns are a common sight. These are farms which offer dinner and may have a few rooms attached for travelers. The folks at La Combe scoped out the best of these in the area and we had the pleasure of lunch at La Ferme des Cent Ecus. As you can see from the pictures, this building is more than a few centuries old and made a charming setting for our meal.

The farm raises geese for foie gras and we enjoyed a lovely meal of goose confit, ratatouille and Potatoes Sarladaise.The ratatouille hails from Provence, but the goose and potatoes are very tradtional in this part of France.

 

 

Terrine   

 Goose Confit, Ratatouille, Potatoes Sarladaise

Chevre

POTATOES SARLADAISE

(serves 6)

• 175-220 grams goose or duck fat
  
• 1 kilo potatoes, thinly sliced
  
• 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
  
• salt and freshly ground pepper
  
• 2-3 tablespoons chopped parsley
  

Heat half the goose/duck fat in a large skillet. Add the potatoes and fry gently, regulating the heat so that they cook through as they brown, adding more fat as needed. Turn the potatoes from time to time, taking care not break the slices. Add the garlic when the potatoes are partially cooked; it loses its flavour if it browns too much or may even scorch. Season with salt and pepper and just before serving add the parsley and toss through.

This is Diane Holuigue's recipe and her note says that this is"the classic potatoes with goose/duck fat from Sarlat, and the traditional accompaniment to confit."

I've waxed poetic before about the glory of food cooked in duck fat. It's affirming to know that generations of French women and men feel as I do.