Bear Cuisine

Corned Beef

St. Patrick's Day has come and gone, but this year it was memorable for us because I corned our beef brisket myself. This was the first time I attempted it and I have to say it was surprisingly easy and possibly the best corned beef we had ever tasted. I was inspired to try by The City Cook who took her cue from Julia Child and The Best Recipe by the editors of Cook's Illustrated Magazine.

CORNED BEEF

1. 1/2 cup kosher salt
2. 1 tablespoon black peppercorns, crusted into big pieces
3. 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4. 3/4 teaspoon ground allspice
5. 1 tablespoon dried thyme
6. 1/2 teaspoon hot paprika
7. 2 bay leaves, crumbled
8. 1/2 center cut beef brisket, about 2 to 4 pounds, trimmed of excess fat but with a thin layer of fate left on the meat; rinse and patted dry with paper towels

1. In a small bowl combine the salt, peppercorns, ground pepper, allspice, thyme, paprika and crumbled bay leaves.

2. With a sharp serving fork or the tip of a skewer, pierce the surface of the brisket about 25 to 30 times on both sides. This will help the salt rub penetrate the meat.

3. Place the brisket inside a large plastic bag that can be tightly sealed; a one gallon zipper-lock bag works well. Add all of the salt mixture and use your hands to rub it on all surfaces of the brisket.

4. Seal the plastic bag, pressing out any air as you do, and place it in a shallow baking pan or small sheet pan. Place on top of it one or two other baking dishes or other heavy objects like cans  of tomatoes, weighing it down.

5. Refrigerate 5 days, turning the brisket, still in its sealed bag, over once day. Don't marinate for more than 5 days. Any longer than that and the meat will be excessively salty.

6. When you're ready to cook the brisket, remove it from the refrigerator Take it out of its plastic bag and rinse it completely.

7. Place the brisket in a large pot, fill the pot with cool water so as to cover the beef by about an inch and bring to a boil. Scum is likely to come to the surface and this should be skimmed off. Once the scum seems to have been completely removed, cover the pan, reduce to a simmer and cook for 2 to 3 hours or until the meat is completely tender and be easily pierced with a skewer.

8. Drain completely and cut in thin 1/2-inch slice, cutting across the grain.

9. Serve with steamed potatoes, roasted Brussels sprouts, buttered carrots and sour cream horseradish sauce.

Sour Cream Horseradish Sauce

• 1 cup sour cream
• 2 tablespoons grated horseradish
• 1 small minced onion

Combine ingredients and mix well. Refrigerate for a few hours before serving.

Sticky Toffee Pudding

Often I have no ethnic connection to the foods I cook and like to eat. This time I can proudly claim my British roots as I share this dessert.This is one of the best, gooiest concoctions ever created and we just love it. We don't have it frequently, but save it for special occasions or upon request for a birthday. I was puzzled as to why this gets monicker "pudding," but in rummaging around in some of my cookbooks discovered that pudding can include desserts made from eggs, flour and dehydrated fruit which are then steamed or baked. 

STICKY TOFFEE PUDDING

(serves 8)

For the Cake

1. 2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
2. 1 1/4 cup sugar
3. 4 eggs
4. 1 cup unsalted butter
5. 1/2 cup boiling water
6. 1 teaspoon baking soda
7. 1 teaspoon salt
8. 3/4 cup pitted chopped dates

Pour boiling water over dates and baking soda, set aside.

In a medium bowl, cream together sugar and butter until light and fluffy.

Add eggs, one at a time and blend well.

Mix together flour and salt.

Stir date mixture into butter and eggs and mix well.

Add dry ingredients and fold together to form a smooth batter.

Pour batter into 9x9x2 inch baking pan and bake at 376 degrees F for 25 minutes.

For the Caramel Sauce

1. 1 3/4 cups brown sugar
2. 1/4 cup unsalted butter
3. 1 cup heavy cream
4. 1 teaspoon vanilla
5. 1/2 teaspoon salt

In  heavy saucepan heat cream, butter and brown sugar.

Allow to simmer for 10 minutes or until the sauce starts to thicken.

Remove from the heat and stir in vanilla and salt.

Serve warm over Sticky Pudding.

You can add whipped cream if you wish, but I think that's gilding the lily.

Pork Chops with Fontina

I watched Lidia Bastianich make this dish one wintery Saturday afternoon on her show, Lidia Cooks from the Heart of Italy. She made it look easy and, indeed, it was. Lidia used veal chops, but pork chops are much more affordable. I found that I didn't need as much cheese as the recipe called for, but undoubtedly the amount will vary with the size of the chop used. Be sure to use Italian Fontina (not domestic or Scandanavian) and genuine Parmigiano-Reggiano or Grana Padana. Using the best ingredients will help to insure a great tasting dish.

PORK CHOPS WITH FONTINA

1. 6 bone-in pork chops, about 1 1/2 inches thick (8 to 10 ounces each)
   
2. 2 teaspoons kosher salt
   
3. 8 ounces shredded Fontina from Valle d'Aosta (or Italian fontal)
   
4. 1 cup grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano
   
5. 4 tablespoons butter
   
6. 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
   
7. 1/2 cup all-purpose flour for dredging
   
8. 12 fresh sage leaves
   
9. 1 tablespoon tomato paste
   
10. 2 cups white wine
    
11. 1/2 cup hot chicken broth
    

Arrange an oven rack to accommodate the covered saucepan and heat the oven to 400 degrees.

Trim the chops, leaving only a thin layer of fat. With a sharp knife, slice horizontally into the outer edge of each chop, splitting the meaty portion in two, almost all the way to the bone,creating a pocket for stuffing. With a mallet, pound and spread the meaty part, flattening it to 1/2-inch thickness. Lift up the top flap of the meat you just sliced apart, hold it up and pound the bottom flap of meat a few more times, spreading it thinner and wider than the upper flap. When all the chops are sliced and pounded, salt the on both sides.

Toss together the shredded Fontina and the Grana Padano; divide the cheese into six equal portions. One at a time, lightly compress the cheese portions into oval patties and slip them into the sliced chop pockets. Fold the larger bottom meat flap over the top flap--enclosing the cheese--and thread toothpicks through both flaps to keep them together. (The chops can be prepared up this point a day in advance, sealed in plastic wrap, and refrigerated.)

Put 2 tablespoons of the butter and olive oil in the big pan, and set over medium-high heat. Spread the flour on a plate, dredge each chop on both sides, shake off excess flour, and lay chops in the pan. When all the chops are in the pan, drop the sage leaves in between them. Cook the chops for 5 minutes or more, turning them once or twice, until well browned on both sides.

Clear a space in the pan bottom, drop in the tomato paste, and toast it in the hot spot for a minute. Pour the wine over the tomato paste, stir them together, and shake the pan to distribute the liquid. Bring to a boil, and cook for 3 minutes or so, to reduce.

Add the remaining 2 tablespoons butter and whisk it into the pan liquid. Turn the chops over, pour in the chicken stock, sprinkle on the remaining salt, and bring to a boil.

Cover the pan, and place in the oven. Roast for about 15 minutes, then remove the cover and toast another 10 minutes or so, until the chops are done and the sauce has thickened.

Remove from the oven, and place the chops on a warm platter.(Be very careful here. I burned my hand to a fare thee well the first time I made this dish because I didn't pay attention to the pan's being so damned hot. Lidia suggests covering the handle with a towel to remind you that the pan is hot. It is an excellent suggestion.) If the sauce is thin put the pan over high heat and reduce until the sauce has the consistency you like.

Serve right away--while the cheese is still oozing--arranging all the chops on a warm platter and spooning the sauce over, family-style, or on warm dinner plates with mashed potatoes alongside and the sauce drizzled over.

I served these with cheesy grits cakes. These made an excellent accompaniment and highlighted the cheese in the main course.

Insta Pizza

A few days ago I was staring into the refrigerator and wondering what in the world I could cook for supper. I didn't want to go shopping and I didn't want to do very much work-- on anything, even cooking. You might know those sorts of days--the ones where it seems almost impossible to summon up will or motivation. Anyway, I started pulling stuff out of the fridge and here is what I found-- Fontina cheese, bits of leftover roast chicken, some leftover artichoke hearts, Kalamata olives, Parmigiana-Reggiano cheese, pepperoni, Mozzarella cheese. Finally, I stumbled upon tortillas and then I knew what we would have--pizzas.

I opened the pantry and found a can of wonderful tomatoes from Gustiamo and then we were set. The tortillas made a wonderful base for these beauties. With such disparate ingredients, I decided to make two different kinds of pizzas and both were delicious. My feeling of absolute brilliance was quite unwarranted, but my delight in making such good food so easily was real and the recollection, still  pleasurable. A serendipitous cure for the doldrums of late winter.

Before putting on the ingredients, I brushed each tortilla with a bit of olive oil. When you are finished with your creation, cook for approximately 12 minutes in a 400 degree oven. 

Tortilla Pizza with shredded Fontina cheese, roast chicken, artichoke hearts, Kalamata olives, and Parmigiana-Reggiano cheese

Tortilla Pizza with Pomodori Pelati tomatoes*, mozzarella, pepperoni, kalamata olives and Parmigiana-Reggiano Cheese

*These  may be the best canned tomatoes I've ever tasted. As long as they are available, they will be a staple in my pantry.

Minted Poached Figs

I love figs.I can  remember my first bite of a fresh fig. Our family was vacationing in Ocean City, Maryland and our rental cabin had a fig bush just outside the front door. One of my parents identified the ripening fruit and I just had to try one. Bliss! I was instantly transported to all places warm and sunny and the sweet juiciness of the fruit gave me a taste memory that still gives me pleasure beyond words. So, you can imagine my delight when Christine Hickman gave us this recipe for this luscious dessert.

MINTED POACHED FIGS with Parmiagiano-Reggiano Mousse

(serves 6)

• 2 cups Italian dry red wine, preferably Chianti or Valpolicella
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1 lemon
• 3 4-inch sprigs fresh mint
• 18 fresh Black Mission Figs (or dried if fresh are unavailable)

• 1 cup heavy cream
• 1/4 cup honey
• 1/2 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

• 6 sprigs fresh mint for garnish

In a saucepan large enough to hold all the figs in one layer, combine the wine and sugar. Bring the mixture to a boil, stirring until the sugar dissolves.

Cut peel from the lemon into long strips without the bitter white pith. Juice the peeled lemon and add peel, juice and mint to the wine mixture Remove from heat.

Leaving the stem attached, cut a very thin slice from the bottom of each fig and stand upright in the wine mixture. The liquid should come just to the top of the figs without covering them completely Return the pan to medium-high heat and bring to a gentle simmer Adjust the heat so the liquid does not boil. Simmer the figs 5 minutes (30 to 40 minutes if using dried).

Remove the figs with a slotted spoon to a plate. Bring the sauce to a boil, and cook 10 minutes, or until it begins to form large clear bubbles and becomes a light sticky syrup. Strain the syrup into a small bowl and set aside to cool, It can be rewarmed for serving if desired.

For the Mousse

In a small saucepan, warm the heavy cream with the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano just until the cheese is melted into the cream. Add the honey and mix well. Chill thoroughly.

Beat the cream until stiff and keep chilled until ready to serve.

To serve, spoon a small puddle of syrup onto each serving plate. Place3 figs in the center and a heaping mound of the mousse on the side. Garnish with mint sprigs and serve immediately.

 

MINTED POACHED FIGS