There are so many ways to classify the dishes that one cooks--by technique, by ingredients, by country of origin,by season or, as the most recent of Saveur reminded me, by the type of cooking vessel which is used. I have long been a collector of clay pots and love the different shapes and kinds of clay that are used in different parts of the world. They all speak of the earth and remind us of our intimate connection to it. The article by Maria Speck, "Good Earth," prompted me to look in the cabinet were I keep most of these treasures and there, prominently displayed, was my Romertopf.
At one time it was in constant use, but, for reasons I don't remember, had fallen out of favor. I was delighted to see it again and promptly put it to work to make a delicious Indian-style Lamb Pot Roast.
RAAN MUSSALAM
- 8 cloves garlic
- 1 small onion quartered
- 1 3-inch piece ginger, peeled and roughly chopped
- 1/2 cup golden raisins
- 1/2 cup unsweetened flaked coconut
- 1/3 cup blanched almonds
- 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon garam masala*
- 2 tablespoons light brown sugar
- 3 teaspoons saffron
- 4 serrano chiles, stemmed
- 1 1/2 cups yogurt
- 1 6 to 7 pound leg of lamb, boned
- Kosher salt to taste
- Juice of 1 lime
- 1 large onion, thinly sliced
- 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro leaves
1. In a food processor, pulse garlic, onions, ginger, raisins, coconut, almonds, 2 tablespoons garam masala, sugar, 2 teaspoons saffron and 3 chiles to a paste. Add 1/2 cup yogurt; pulse to combine. With a sharp knife make 1/4"-deep cuts all over lamb. Season inside of lamb with salt; rub with half the yogurt mixture, working it into the cuts. Roll lamb into a cylinder; tie at 1" intervals with kitchen twine. Season outside of lamb with salt; rub with remaining yogurt mixture. Cover; let marinate for 1 hour at room temperature.
2. Finely chop remaining chile; combine with lime juice and remaining garam masala, saffron, and yogurt in a small bowl. Refrigerate sauce.
3. Soak Romertopf roaster in water for 15 minutes; drain. Put sliced onion into bottom of pot; top with lamb. Cover place in a cold oven; turn heat to 325 degrees. Bake until lamb is tender, about 3 hours. Uncover; cook, basting occasionally with juices, until browned, about 30 minutes more. Transfer lamb to a cutting board. Pour juices and onions into a 2-quart saucepan; boil over hight heat until reduced to 2 cups, about 15 minutes. Transfer onions to a platter with a slotted spoon. Slice lamb and lay over onions; drizzle with reduced juices and garnish with cilantro. Sere with the yogurt sauce.
*I take a short cut with the garam masala and use an excellent commerical mixture made by Ajika.com.
(from Saveur, #116)
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