Bear Cuisine

Susanna Foo (Part 4)

OK. No more recipes. Just pictures of fabulous food and the gorgeous surroundings.

Crispy Prawns with Caramelized Citrus Sauce and Sweet Rice Compote

Warm Chocolate Cake with Vanilla Ice Cream

Mango Creme Brulee

an elegant dining room

SUSANNA FOO

1512 Walnut Street, Center City

215-545-8800

www.susannafoo.com

Susanna Foo (Part 3)

Seafood Fried Rice with Shrimp and Salmon

My Favorite Fried Rice

(serves 4 as a main course or 8 as a side dish)

I love the flavor that the fresh tomato and basil give this rice. Most fried rice recipes call for long-grain, but I prefer to use the medium-or-short-grain varieties, as they have a richer, sweeter taste.

Since I always use a rice cooker, I assemble the whole dish right in it. I stir the bacon-vegetable mixture and the cooked eggs directly into the freshly cooked rice and mix well.

• 2 cups medium-or short-grain white rice, washed and drained
• 5 tablespoons corn or olive oil
• 4 large eggs, lightly beaten
• 1/2 cup diced red onion
• 1 cup diced Canadian bacon*
• 1/2 cup cooked fresh or frozen, thawed peas
• 1/2 cup fresh or frozen, thawed, white or yellow corn kernels
• 4 scallions finely chopped
• 1 cup diced, seeded tomato (1 large)
• 2 teaspoons coarse or kosher salt
• Fresh ground pepper
• 1/2 cup chopped fresh basil leaves

Cook the rice in a rice cooker, following the manufacturer's instructions .

Heat 4 tablespoons of the oil in a large nonstick skillet until hot. Add the eggs and cook over medium heat until lightly set. Stir with chopsticks or a wooden spoon to break the eggs into tiny pieces. Continue to cook, stirring, until the eggs are lightly browned and their aroma is released, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove to a small bowl with a slotted spoon and set aside.

Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil in the same skillet, add the onion and cook over high heat until soft and lightly golden, about 2 minutes. Add the bacon, peas, corn and scallions and stir-fry until heated through, about 3 minutes.

Add the tomato and sprinkle withe salt. Stir in the cooked rice and the egg, breaking up any lumps. Mix well and heat through, 1 to 2 minutes. Season to taste with pepper and the basil.

*Chicken, shrimp or ham may be substituted.

(recipe from Susanna Foo Chinese Cuisine)

Slow-Roasted Salmon with Coconut Polenta and Back Bean Sauce

Slow-Roasted Salmon

(Serves 4)

• 4 6 to 8 ounce center-cut salmon fillets, skin on
• Sake Ginger Brine
• 2 tablespoons olive oil

Place the salmon fillets skin side up in a container just large enough to hold them in a single layer. Pour the brine over the fish, cover, and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours.

Preheat the oven to 250 degrees. Drain the salmon, reserving the brine. Pour the olive oil into a shallow bowl or onto a rimmed plate. Roll the fillets in the oil, coating on all sides, and place them in a baking pan large enough to hold them in a single layer. The salmon can be prepared ahead up to this point and refrigerated, covered for a few hours.

Bake the salmon, spooning some of the reserve brine over it from time to time, for 30 to 40 minutes, or until it just begins to flake.

SAKE GINGER BRINE

• 1/2 cup sake
• 1 1 to 2 inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
• 1 tablespoon soy sauce
• 1 tablespoon rock sugar or honey
• 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
• 2 fresh thyme sprigs, preferably lemon thyme

Combine all the ingredients in a large saucepan, add 1/2 cup water, and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Turn heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes. Cook before using. The brine can be refrigerated in a covered jar for up to 2 weeks.

(recipes from Susanna Foo Fresh Inspiration. published by Houghton Mifflin)

I should note that this is not the sauce that was used on the day we ate at the restaurant, but it sounded so good that I included it anyway.

Susanna Foo (Part 2)

One-Hundred-Corner Crab Cakes with Baby Greens and Sun-Dried Tomato Sauce

One-Hundred-Corner Crab Cakes

• 1 1-pound loaf thinly sliced white bread, crusts removed
• 3/4 pound shrimp, peeled deveined and cleaned with salt
• 3  tablespoons vodka or gin
• 1 large egg white
• 1 teaspoon coarse or kosher salt
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
• 2 ounces pork fat, minced by hand or in a food processor (1/4 cup) or 1/4 cup heavy cream
• 1/3 cup finely chopped fresh water chestnuts or jicama
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro steams or celery leaves
• 2 scallions, white part only, finely chopped
• 1 tablespoon peeled, grated ginger root
• 3/4 pound fresh crabmeat
• About 2 tablespoons olive oil for dipping
• Corn Oil for deep-frying

Preheat the oven to 250 degrees F.

Cut the bread into 1/4 inch dice and place on a nonstick baking sheet. Bake for 30 minutes, without turning or until the bread is dry; do not let the cubes brown.

Dry the shrimp well with paper towels, then place in a food processor. Add vodka or gin and puree. Spoon the shrimp puree into a medium bowl; set aside.

Lightly beat the egg white with the salt and white pepper in a small bowl. Mix into the shrimp puree. Stir in the pork fat or cream. Add the water chestnuts or jicama, cilantro stems or celery leaves, scallions and ginger root ad mix until thoroughly combined.

Gently fold the crabmeat into the shrimp mixture (the crabmeat should remain lumpy).

Have the bread cubes ready in a large bowl on one side of the crabmeat mixture. Place the olive oil in a small bowl on the other side. Oil a tablespoon by dipping it into the olive oil, then scoop up 1 heaping tablespoon f the shrimp-crab mixture and place it on top of the bread cubes. Repeat, placing 5 or 6 spoonfuls of the crabmeat mixture on the bread cubes, spacing them so they do not touch.

Use your hand to roll each lump of crabmeat into the cubes, forming a ball as you work. Gently flatten each ball into a small cake, about 2 inches in diameter; place the crab cakes on a platter or a baking sheet.

Pour about 6 inches of oil into a skillet or fryer and heat to 325 degrees F. Fry the crab cakes in batches until they are golden, burning once, for 3 to 4 minute on each side; do not crowd. Remove the crab cakes with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.

Crispy Duck with Star Anise Sauce and Sweet Potato Puree

Crispy Duck with Star Anise Sauce

(serves 4)

• Double recipe Brown Sauce for Braising
  
• 1 5-pound duck, washed, all visible fat removed
  
• 1/4 cup water chestnut flour* 
  
• 3 tablespoons warm water
  
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
  
• 1 tablespoon white vinegar
  
• 1 small orange, zest removed and thinly julienned; orange sectioned
  
• 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
  
• 2 tablespoons Grand Marnier or Triple Sec or Cointreau
  
• Corn oil for deep-frying
  
• 4 star anise
  

  Bring the brown sauced to a vigorous boil in a large pot. Carefully lower the duck into the sauce.

Return the sauce to a boil, then reduce the heat to low; do not let the liquid boil again.

Simmer the duck, covered, for 1 hour and 15 minutes, turning 3 or 4 times to coat it well withe braising sauce. Removed the duck fro the sauce and place it on a platter. Refrigerate the sauce. Cook the duck and store, covered, overnight in the refrigerator. Drain any liquid that accumulates on the platter and add it to the sauce.

The following day, skim the fat from the top and set aside 1 cup of the sauce. Refrigerate or freeze the rest for another use.

Cut the duck in half and remove the backbone, if you wish. With your hand, removed and discard the breast and rib bones.

Combine the water chestnut flour, warm water, white pepper and white vinegar on a large shallow plate until the flour is dissolved.

Holding each duck half over the plate, spoon the flour mixture over the duck, making sure to coat both sides. Let stand at room temperature for 5 to 10 minutes, until the coating has dried.

Meanwhile, place the julienned orange zest in a large saucepan with water to cover; and cook until the zest is tender and the bitterness is removed, about 5 minutes; drain. Transfer to a small saucepan, and add the balsamic vinegar and the reserved 1 cup of brown sauce. Bring to a boil, then remove from the heat and stir in the orange liqueur; set aside.

Heat bout 6 inches of oil to 325 degrees F in a fryer or large skillet. Carefully lower the duck halves into the hot oil. Spoon the hot oil over the duck as it cooks, turning 2 or 3 times, until the duck has browned, about 5 to 7 minutes. The skin should be very crisp.

Using tongs, remove the duck halves from the oil and drain on paper towels.

Gently heat the sauce while you carve the duck into 2-inch-thick slices.

Place the duck on a serving platter or divide amoung 4 plates. Garnish with the orange sections  and star anise. Serve the sauce on the side.

*Water chestnut flour; also called water chestnut starch, is made from fresh water chestnuts that re ground and then dried. A fine, powdery flour, it is used as a thickening agent and a coating for deep-friend foods. It usually comes in 1-pound boxes. I grind it into an extra-fine powder before mixing it with water to use as a coating. Water chestnut flour gives a crisper coating to foods than does cornstarch.

BROWN SAUCE FOR BRAISING

(makes about 2 cups)

This sauce can be used to braise beef, pork, lamb, veal, chicken, duck, Cornish hens, sweetbreads, pressed  bean curd and eggs. If you want to reuse this sauce for meat, do not braise vegetables in it, since the acid present in them will change the flavour of the sauce.

2 tablespoons corn oil
3 garlic cloves, crushed
2 scallions, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 2-inch piece ginger root, sliced
1 teaspoon roasted Sichuan peppercorns
3 star anise
1/2 cup chicken or beef stock
1 cup soy sauce
1/2 cup sake or brandy
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon coarse or kosher salt    

Heat the oil in a large Dutch oven. Add the garlic, scallions, ginger root, pepper corns and star anise and cook over high heat, stirring, until the garlic is golden and you can smell the spices 2 to 3 minutes.

Stir in the stock, soy sauce, sake or brandy, sugar and salt. Boil the sauce over high heat for about 10 minutes to blend the flavors. Reduce the heat to low and keep the sauce warm or refrigerate if not using immediately. At this point the brown sauce is ready to be used for braising.

(recipes from Susanna Food Chinese Cuisine)

Susanna Foo's In Philadelphia (part 1)

One of my all-time favorite restaurants--anywhere-- is Susanna Foo's. The chef of this eponymous restaurant won the James Beard Award for best chef in the Mid-Atlantic region in 1997. She hasn't missed a step in the last 11 years. Foo combines her Chinese background with French techniques to create some of the most memorable Chinese food I've ever enjoyed,This is a restaurant that I have returned to every time I visit Philadelphia and it never disappoints. The place is elegant; the service is elegant; the food is elegant. 

On this visit, David, Tina, Kay and I went for lunch after a visit to the Philadelphia Museum to see the Frida Kahlo exhibit. A morning of museuming can give one almost as good an appetite as a morning at the gym. We all ordered the three-course luncheon with different entrees and appetizers.  As we savoured our meal, we understood why Chef Foo won that James Beard Award and why she continues to have such a faithful following. 

I've included pictures of our food and when her cookbooks provide them, recipes for those of you who might like to prepare these dishes at home. 

Pot Stickers with pickled Napa Cabbage

PORK DUMPLINGS WITH SOY-GINGER SAUCE

These dumplings are the most popular appetizer in my restaurant, and even though I've been eating them forever, I'm still not bored with them.

• 1 pound pork butt, coarsely ground
• 1 cup finely chopped scallions
• 3 tablespoons soy sauce
• 1 tablespoon Asian sesame oil
• 1 tablespoon peeled, grated ginger root
• 1/2 pound Chinese napa cabbage,* finely chopped
• 1 1 pound package round dumpling wrappers (gyoza), 3 inches in diamater
• Soy-Ginger Sauce

In a large bowl, combine the pork, scallions, soy sauce, sesame oil and ginger root. Mix well so that the flavors will penetrate the meat. then add the cabbage and mix until all the ingredients are thoroughly combined. The filling will not taste right if you try to combine all the ingredients at once.

Place 1 dumpling wrapper on a plate or a board. Place 1 scant tablespoon of pork mixture in the center. Moisten the edges of the wrapper with a little water; then fold them over the filling to form a half-moon shape. Pinch the center together first, then stand the dumpling up on its base and pleat one of the sides of the half-moon twice, halfway  between the outer edge and the center. Pleat the other side the same way and leave the dumpling standing up.

Stand the finished dumplings on a baking sheet lined with wax paper. Do not allow the sides of  the dumplings to touch each other, or they will stick together.

Repeat, using the remaining dumpling wrappers and pork filling.

The dumplings can be made in advance and frozen for up to 3 months or they may be cooked immediately, either boiled or pan-fried. Serve hot, with Soy-Ginger Sauce on the side.

8If you cannot get napa cabbage, substitute green cabbage. Because it is not as moist as the Chinese cabbage, add 2 tablespoons of water to the pork filling before incorporating the cabbage.

Freezing Dumplings

Uncooked dumplings can be frozen for up to 3 months and are handy to have around for last-minute entertaining.

The best way to freeze dumplings is to spread them out flat on a try or baking sheet, as you would berries. Once frozen, they can be packed into plastic bags and sealed tightly. Remove as many as you need each time.

Cooking Dumplings

TO BOIL DUMPLINGS: Fill a large stock pot two-thirds full of water and bring to a boil. (As for cooking pasta, the more water used, the better.) Add one-third of the prepared dumplings. Using a Chinese strainer or a slotted spoon, stir the dumplings to prevent them from sticking together.

Return the water to a boil. The dumplings will rise to the top, but at this point, the fill will still be raw. Add 1/2 cup of cold water and return to a boil again. When the dumplings float, taste one to see if it is done. If not, add another 1/2 cup cold water and cook until the dumplings rise again. Adding cold water slows the cook so the dough does break, allowing enough time for the filling to be thoroughly cooked.

Remove the dumplings from the pot using a Chinese strainer or slotted spoon, and place them on a plate, being careful to keep them separate from one another, so they will not stick together. Repeat with the remaining dumplings.

If you want to cook all the dumplings in advance, they can be reheated by placing them in a single layer on top of cold blanched cabbage leaves to keep them from sticking to the steamer rack. then the dumplings can be steamed just before they are to be served.

TO BOIL FROZEN DUMPLINGS:Do not thaw the dumplings first. Add the frozen dumplings directly to a pot of water. Once the dumplings float to the surface, add 1 cup cold water. Bring the water back to a boil, and when the dumplings float, add cold water again. When the dumplings float to the surface again, taste one to see if it is cooked. If not, repeat this process one more time. Drain and serve.

TO PAN-FRY DUMPLINGS: Pan-fried dumplings are known as 'pot stickers" because one side sticks to the bottom of the pot, becoming delightfully crisp. Heat about 1 tablespoon corn oil in a large nonstick skillet. Add as many dumplings as can fit in a single layer. Pour 1/2 cup cold water over the dumplings.

Cover the skillet and cook over low heat for about 10 minutes, without turning or stirring, until the water has evaporated and the dumplings are golden and crisp on the bottom. If the dumplings are not browned enough, keep cooking until they are. Remove the dumplings to a heated platter and repeat with the remaining dumplings. Defrost frozen dumplings before cooking or they will burn.

SOY-GINGER SAUCE

• 1/4 cup soy sauce
• 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
• 1 tablespoon peeled, julienned ginger root

Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl. Mix thoroughly and serve.

PICKLED NAPA CABBAGE,DAIKON AND CARROTS

(Makes about 10 cups vegetables)

• 3 cups water
• 1 cup white vinegar
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 2 tablespoons coarse or kosher salt
• 1 napa cabbage (about 2 pounds)
• 1 daikon (about 1 pound) peeled
• 1 small carrot
• 2 small hot red pepper or jalapeno peppers
• 1 3-inch piece ginger root
• 2 garlic cloves, minced

Combine the water, vinegar, sugar and salt in a clean, grease-free medium saucepan. Bring to a boil. Remove from the heat; cool.

Cut off the leafy upper half of the cabbage and reserve for another use. You sill need only the bottom (stem) ends that have thicker ribs. Cuyt each ribbed leaf in half lengthwise. Cut again lengthwise into 1/8-inch strips.

Cut the daikon crosswise into thin, round slices, then cut each slice into julienne. Soak in ice water for 5 minutes; drain.

Cut the carrot into fine julienne.

Remove the steam from the peppers and slice crosswise into thin slices

Peel the ginger root, unless it is spring ginger, and cut into julienne slices.

Combine all the salad ingredients in a large ceramic bowl or jar and mix well. Pour the vinegar combination over all. Mix well.

Cover and refrigerate for at least 8 hours before using. The relish will keep, immersed in the brine and refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.

(recipes and directions from Susanna Foo Chinese Cuisine, Houghton Mifflin Company)

See the next post for more pictures and recipes from this fabulous restaurant.

Chicken Parmesan

On another evening during our Philadelphia (see previous post, "It was a dark and stormy night."), Tina prepared Chicken Parmesan ala The Barefoot Contessa.

CHICKEN PARMESAN

(serves 6)

• 6 boneless chicken breasts
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 2 extra-large eggs
• 11/2 cups freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus extra for serving
• Unsalted butter
• Good olive oil
• Salad greens for 6, washed and spun dry
• Lemon Vinaigrette

Pound the chicken breasts until they are 1/4 inch thick. You can use either a meat mallet or a rolling pin.

Combine the flour, salt, and pepper on a dinner plate. On a second plate, beat the eggs with 1 TBS of water. On a third plate, combine the bread crumbs and 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese. Coat the chicken breasts on both sides with the flour mixture, then dip both sides into the egg mixture and dredge both sides in the bread-crumb mixture, pressing lightly.

Heat 1 TBS of butter and 1 TBS of olive oil in a large saute pan and cook 2 or 3 chicken breasts on medium-low heat for 2 to 3 minutes on each side until cooked through. Add more butter and oil and cook the rest of the chicken breasts. Toss the salad greens with lemon vinaigrette. Place a mound of salad on each hot chicken breast. Serve with extra grated Parmesan.

LEMON VINAIGRETTE

• 1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice (2 lemons)
• 1/2 cup good olive oil 
• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt 
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 

 In a small bowl whisk together the lemon juice, olive oil, salt and pepper.

(both recipes from Barefoot Contessa Family Style by Ina Garten)

We were very spoiled by our dining experiences with Tina and David. Every guest should know such courtesy and care.