Bear Cuisine

National Prime Rib Day

Alas, I have no picture of Prime Rib for this post, but I do have a picture of what has become my all-time favorite meat cook book--The River Cottage MEAT Book by Hugh Fearnley-Whitingstall. Fearnly-Whittingstall is a chef, now also a farmer, in England and he writes passionately about his subject. The first part of this book is given over to understanding meat in all of its forms, beef and veal, lamb and mutton, pork and bacon, poultry, game and offal. (Here I have to note the echoes of the Book of Common Prayer in his chapter titled, "Meat and Right." That alone would make me like this book, but there is so much more.) He speaks persuasively about the ethics of eating meat and the ways in which animals must be raised and slaughtered, i.e., humanely. This is a plea for a return to farming that is as rare and endangered in Britain as it is in the U.S. We may not be able to turn back the clock, but we can change the course of our ways of farming. Doing so will not only result in better meat, but will help to save the planet. Most of us know that meat is high on the food chain. If, however, we were willing to pay more for it and eat less of it because we would be paying a price that has not been artificially suppressed by a government intent on supporting only agribusiness, everyone except the food conglomerates would benefit. If you're not a vegetarian or vegan, this book is fun and informative.

Here is Fearnly-Whittingstall's approach to Roast Beef.

ROAST BEEF--THE FULL MONTY

For me, a well-hung rib of beef on the bone (ideally four ribs' worth...) is the ultimate roasting joint.
. . . the Full Monty is my beefy term for "all the trimmings," which together make the roast beef experience everything it ought to be. .... For me, the Full Monty of trimmings is:

Yorkshire Pudding
Perfect Roast Potatoes
Leeks with Greens
Beef Bone Gravy
Creamed Fresh Horseradish
Glazed Carrots

Massage the whole joint with olive oil or soft drippings and season lightly all over with salt and pepper. Place in a roasting pan and put in a hot oven (425 to 450 degrees F). Cook for about 30 minutes, until the meat is well browned and sizzling.

Turn the oven down to 350 degrees F (leave the door open for half a minute to help it cool quickly). Experience teaches you to know your oven and how you like your meat, but I can offer the following guidelines: after the "half-hour sizzle," allow 9 to 10 minutes per pound for very rare meat, 12 to 15 minutes for medium, or 18 to 20 minutes if you insist on having it well done. The shorter cooking times are for joints of 10 pounds or above.

Remove the meat from the oven. Transfer to a warm serving plate or carving tray and cover loosely with a pice of foil. Leave to rest for NO LESS THAN HALF AN HOUR before carving and serving. This is very important....

While the meat is relaxing, you can deglaze the roasting pan to finish your gravy, put the Yorkshire pudding in the oven and finish off the roast potatoes. To serve up, I like to carve the meat on a sideboard, putting beef, Yorkshire pudding and roast potatoes on each warmed plate, while dishes of the vegetables and boats of gravy and horseradish--as well as mustard, of course--circulate around the table.

YORKSHIRE PUDDING
(serves 10)

I am indebted to David Wallington, of the Whiteleaf Inn at Croyde. North Devon, who gve these instructions for Yorkshire pudding almost 10 years ago. They have never failed me.

Scant 2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
4 medium eggs, plus 2 egg yolks
1 1/4 cups milk
1 1/4 cups water
2 tablespoons olive oil

Out all the ingredients except the oil in a food process and pulse for above five 10-second bursts until you have a smooth batter.

Rest the batter for at least half an hour before making the pudding. At any rate, you should not put the pudding in the oven until have removed the beef and set it to rest. This serves as an excellent way of ensuring you carry out this vital exercise of relaxing the meat. You can then turn up the oven, which may or may not still contain the roasting potatoes, to 425 degrees F.

I like to make a single Yorkshire pudding in a big roasting pan, then slice it, rather than create individual puddings. It looks better and feels more generous. Choose a roasting pan or ovenproof dish about 10X16 inches, pour in the olive oil, and heat it in the oven for at least 5 minutes, and no less. (If a few drops of batter don't sizzle when dropped in the pan, return it to the oven for another 5 minutes.)

Pour the batter into the hot, sizzling pan, return it to the oven, and leve for 20 to 25 minutes, until the pudding is well puffed up and golden.

PERFECT ROAST POTATOES

Choose a floury variety of potato, such as Russet Burbank, Maris Piper or Kennebec and cut fairly small--egg size, if you like. [I think our Idaho Potato would serve the purpose here.] Parboil in gently boiling salted water for about 8 minutes--stop before the potatoes are cooked right through. Drain and leave to cool completely, then scratch roughly with a fork and season with a little fine salt. Only roast the potatoes round the joint if there is plenty of fat in the pan--at least 1/4 inch--and plenty of room. Better to preheat the oil (goose fat or lard if you have them, sunflower or peanut if you don't) in a separate pan, adding any fat from the roasting pan just before the spuds go in. Do not add the potatoes till the oil is sizzling hot. Baste or turn them carefully as soon as they go into the pan, so they have a light coating of oil from the start.

Roast the potatoes for the last 45 minutes of your joint's cooking time, turning at least once. If they look as if they could use a bit more browning/crisping, leave them in after the joint has come out to rest and whack up the heat.

Drain well and keep in a warm oven, uncovered and not too piled on top of each other. Season again, with salt and pepper, before serving.

LEEKS WITH GREENS
(serves 8 to 10)

4 leeks, finely sliced
A little butter
1 savoy cabbage or 2 pounds winter greens or , roughly shredded
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Sweat the leeks in a little butter for 6 to 8 minutes, until tender. Meanwhile, lightly steam the greens over boiling water for about 2 minutes. Drain well, toss with the leeks, and season to taste with salt and pepper. The leeks should be soft and the greens still quite crunchy.

BEEF BONE GRAVY
(serves 10)

This is not really a gravy but a classic stock reduction from a beef bone stock that can be prepared well in advance. It's boosted with the roasting juices from a joint of beef to give the ultimate gravy for Roast Beef.

At least two quarts good, clear beef stock
1/2 bottle red wine
Salt

Put the stock in a clean, heavy-based pan at least 4 quarts in capacity, add the wine, and boil hard to reduce, skimming off any rising deposits. As it becomes darker and more concentrated, taste regularly. It will cry out for salt but do not add any yet, as the saltiness will concentrate as you continue to reduce. Stop reducing when you have a rich concentrated beefy sauce that is lightly syrupy but not too sticky. Only at this point should you season, to taste, with salt.

Finish the gravy at the last minute by adding the deglazed pan juices from your roasting pan or frying pan, but exclude as much fat as you can and check that the juices are not too salty. Then strain through a fine sieve. A brisk whisk will help to emulsify the two sauces.

You can keep the gravy, chilled as a jelly, in the fridge for up to week. Before serving, gently warm it until not quite boiling and "refresh" with a small splash of the wine you're going to drink with the beef.

CREAMED FRESH HORSERADISH
(serves 8 to 10)

About 2 12 ounces fresh horseradish root
2 teaspoons good vinegar
1 teaspoon English mustard
A pinch (no more) of sugar
1/3 creme fraiche
A pinch of salt
A twist of black pepper.

Peel and finely grate the horseradish. Combine it with the vinegar, mustard, and sugar; mix well and leave to macerate for 10 minutes. Mix again. Stir in the creme fraiche and season to taste with salt and pepper. Don't keep for more than a couple of days.

GLAZED CARROTS
(serves 8 to 10)

5 tablespoons butter
2 pounds carrots, peeled and liced on the diagonal
2 teaspoons superfine sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
About 1 1/4 cups good jellied chicken or beef stock
Freshly ground b lack pepper
Chopped fresh parsley, to garnish

Melt the butter in a wide saucepan and add the carrots, sugar, salt, and enough stock to come halfway up the carrots. Bring to a simmer, then cook gently, uncovered, shaking the pan occasionally, until the carrots are just tender. Remove the carrots with a slotted spoon, transfer to a a warmed dish, and keep warm. Raise the heat under the pan and boil the liquid rapidly until it has reduced to rich, shiny glaze. Return the carrots to the pan and turn to coat them in the glaze. Adjust the seasoning and serve sprinkled with parsley.

I don't know about you, but I'm thinking about who to invite for Christmas dinner!

Earth Day

Today, Earth Day, I want to sing praise to the Farmers' Markets. Consciousness has been raised among the general public and many more people are now aware of the importance of sustainable agriculture and, whenever possible, eating locally. A new word has entered our lexicon to describe those who eat close to home, locavore. I could describe myself as an omnivorous locavore. I'v been called worse.

When we were kids, I remember my mother stopping at the local roadside farm stands. Then she was looking for a bargain to stretch the family's food dollar, but she also knew that nothing could compare with the taste of fresh melons, tomatoes or corn. Those summer food memories are still on my palate. In one way, I've been searching all my adult life for those vibrant, palate-thrilling flavors. Todays' farmers' markets have ended my search.

Not only does the food taste good, but we have relationships with the farmers. We know something of their lives and the immensely hard work they have undertaken. We understand that the choice to farm is as much a vocational decision as the call to be a priest or physician. This life is never about money; it's about love of God's creation and caring for the life on the planet.
Our friends, Marge Peterson and Donna Lockridge,run a small dairy farm in the East Mountains outside of Alburqueque--SouthMountainDairy.com. Their goats are raised with incredible care and love and the artisan cheese they make is some of the best I have ever tasted. Their Feta and fresh Chevre are staples in our spring and summer kitchen.
Tom Delahanty and Tracey Hamilton operate a pasture poultry farm, Pollo Real, in southern New Mexico. Their French Hens, Red Ranger and Gourmet Black, actually taste like chicken. A roast chicken made with one of these birds is sublime. When you are eating one of these creatures, no one could convince you that anything else on earth could taste as good. Pasture Poultry operations help to create arable and productive land for growing other crops as well. The Heifer Project knows this;one of the gifts you can give to help folk in developing countries is a flock of chicks.

Whenever we travel, I always try to check out the local markets. When we visited Seattle this past fall, i couldn't wait to get to the Pike Place Market. The Market celebrated its 100th anniversary on 17 August of this year. In the 1960’s developers wanted to demolish the Market and put up office and apartment towers. A grassroots citizens group formed an organization called the Friends of the Market to save this landmark. In 1971 Seattlites voted to make the market an historical district where uses, as well as structures, were preserved. The people of Seattle have shown the rest of us what it takes to preserve something, be it a place or an idea, that is important.

Here is a recipe from the Pike Place Market Cookbook

Zuppa del Frutti di Mare (Seafood Soup)

1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 tablespoon extra virgin oilive oil
1 shallot, minced
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 12 ounce can whole Italian tomatoes
1 1/2 cups homemade chicken stock
Pinch of saffron
1 pound shrimp (rinsed, shells cut down the back with kitchen shears, and deveined) or scallops (rinsed and patted dry) or two pounds mussels (scrubbed and debearded just before cooking)

1 pound seafood fillets, such as halibut or salmon fillets, rinsed, skinned, patted dray and cut into 1/4-pound pieces
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Four 1/2-inch baguette or rustic bread slices, grilled or broiled
1 clove garlic, peeled and halved

1. Heat butter and olive oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add shallot and cook 1 to 2 minutes, or until softened but not browned, stirring frequently. Add wine and cook 1 to 2 minutes, or until reduced slightly, stirring constantly.

2. Add tomatoes and their juice, crushing the tomatoes with your hands or the back of a large spoon. Add chicken stock and saffron, stir well, and bring stock to a simmer.

3. Add seafood to pan, cover and simmer 5 to 7 minutes, or until fish is done and shellfish opens. Remove any mussel that do not open. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

4. To serve, divide the seafood and broth among individual bowls. Top with baguette slices that have been rubbed the garlic clove.

Serves 4

And we can get the halibut and salmon from one of our favorite vendors at the Los Ranchos Market. The Fish Hugger spends the summer on a boat in Alaska catching wild salmon and halbut. We reap the benefits of his labor.

So, especially on Earth Day, I give thanks for all those who plant,tend and harvest the fruits of the earth.

National Garlic Day

As far as I'm concerned,every day should be Garlic Day. I can't imagine cooking without it and I genuinely grieve for friends who are allergic to it. My mother rarely used garlic in her cooking; to her it was probably classed as an exotic ingredient used in ethnic cooking. I can't remember when I first tasted it, but I do remember that it was love at first bite.

Garlic was grown in the Middle East as far back as the third century B.C.E. Because it grew easily, garlic was cheap and widely used by cooks of every class. A head of garlic made up part of the daily ration of the Roman soldier because it was thought to create a strong fighting force. (The Contemporary Encyclopedia of Herbs and Spices)

Garlic has even inspired poetry.

ALLIODE

OH GARLIC(ANGLO-SAXON)!
OH ALLIUM SATIVUM (LINNEAN)!
RUSTIC'S HEAL-ALL
SENT FROM HEAVEN.

YOU ARE THE PEASANT'S CAMPHOR
AND STINKING ROSE OF MIRTH
DIVINE STAPLE OF LAUGHTER
SACRED HERB OF D'EARTH.

OH SERPENTS WEEED
YOU ARE YET HOLY
ABOVE ALL HERBS INDEED
AND DETESTED ONLY
BY THOSE (UNCONFESSED)
WHO IGNORANT, LACK A NOSE
FOR WHAT IS BEST DIGESTED!

AND HOWEVFR ACCURSED AND PROFANE
YOU CROP UP AGAIN AND AGAIN
IN EVERY LANGUAGE KNOWN
IN EVERY NATION GROWN. . . .

ALLIUM S., ALLIUM EST!
ALLIUM YES, ALLIUM BEST!

(Lloyd J Harris in The Book of Garlic)

One of the first recipes I remember trying after falling in love with the Stinking Rose was Forty Clove Chicken.

FORTY-CLOVE CHICKEN--HERMETICALLY SEALED

There are many chicken dishes that call for 40 or more cloves of garlic. The garlic can be stuffed into the whole bird with other ingredients. Don't let the amount of garlic scare you; the garlic, after prolonged cooking has a mild, nutty flavor, and thus these chicken recipes are known as "pistaches" in France.

2/3 cup olive oil
4 stalks celery
1 tablespoon tarragon
salt
freshly ground pepper
freshly grated nutmet
1 2 lb. chicken
40 cloves garlic
1/3 cup cognac
1/4 cup flour
water
fried toast

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Pour olive oil into large casserole. To oil add the celery which has been cut into thin strips, parsley and tarragon. Sprinkle salt and pepper and nutmeg over the chicken which has been cut into quarters. Add chicken to oil and vegetable mixture turning to coat the pieces thoroughly. Add garlic, cognac and 1/2 teaspoon salt.

Add to flour enough water to make stiff paste. Cover the casserole with the lid and make a hermetic seal by spreading flour and water paste on edges of lid and and casserole. Completely cover the top with aluminum foil. Bake the casserole for 1 1/2 hours at 375 degrees. Do not remove the top until ready to serve at the table. Serve with fried toast on which the garlic sauce can be spread. Serves 4
(from The Book of Garlic)

Another favorite is Garlic Mayonnaise otherwise known as Sauce Aioli

SAUCE AIOLI

To prepare 1 cup of aioli, peel 3 medium-size cloves of garlic and work them into a smooth paste with a pinch of coarse salt in a mortar and pestle. If a mortar and pestle are not available, finely chop the garlic and then crush it on a cutting board with side of a chef;s knife. Combine the garlic paste with 2 egg yolks and gradually work 1 cup of extra virgin olive oil into the mixture. if using a mortar and pestle, do this directly in the mortar. Add 1 tablespoon or more of lemon juice or water to the mayonnaise after adding half the oil, to prevent the mayonnaise from becoming too thick.

Although garlic mayonnaise is traditionally prepared directly in a mortar while the oil is gently worked in with the pestle, modern recipes frequently suggest using a blender, electric mixer or hand whisk. Olive oil is a surprisingly fragile substance and will often turn bitter if beaten or overworked. When using extra virgin olive oil, work it into the yolks with a wooden spoon if a mortar and pestle are not available.
(from James Peterson's Sauces)

Catcher on the Rye

When Kay picked up Hallie from school yesterday, she complained that she wasn't liking the book they were reading in her English class, Catcher on[sic] the Rye. Learning the correct title didn't improve her opinion of the book, but she reminded me of one of my favorite sandwiches.

PASTRAMI MELT

Dijon mustard
2 slices caraway rye bread
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 slices lean pastrami
3 slices ripe tomato
2 thin slices red onion
2 slices Swiss cheese

1.Spread the mustard on 1 slice of the bread and a teaspoon of the butter on the other.

2. Layer the pastrami, tomato, onion and cheese on 1 slice and cover with the second. Melt the remaining butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add the sandwich,weighting it down with a small plate. Cook on both sides until the cheese melts and bread browns. (from the Silver Palate Good Times Cookbook)

Here is a very serviceable recipe for rye bread.

SCANDINAVIAN LIGHT RYE

makes a 1 1/2 pound loaf

1 1/8 cups water
1 1/2 tablespoons canola oil

1 7/8 cups bed flour
1 1/8 cups medium rye flour
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon gluten
1 1/2 tablespoons caraway seeds
1 1/2 teaspoons salt

2 1/2 teaspoons SAF yeast or 1 tablespoon bread machine yeast

1.Place all the ingredients in the pan according to the order in the manufacturer's instructions. Set crust on medium and program for the Basic cycle; press Start. The dough ball will be soft and spring.

2. When the baking cycle ends, immediately remove the bread from the pan and place it on a rack. let cook to room temperature before slicing.

(from The Bread Lover's Bread Machine Cookbook)

A bread machine is a great boon in our kitchen; making bread has never been so easy.

Sandwiches

Having come rather late to parenting, I also came late to the art of cooking for children. Mothers who have cooked for years trying to please largely undeveloped palates have my complete respect and total admiration. When people speak of unsung heroes , you should be at the top of the list.

At any rate, I soon learned that making sandwiches for kids, is somewhat different than it is for adults. The key to a good sandwich is the bread, but opinions as to what makes good bread can vary widely. My daughter has an unapologetic preference for white bread, but I couldn't stand to make her lunches with Wonder Bread or some other equivalent. So, I began a search for an acceptable white bread and discovered Pain de Mie.

According to Bernard Clayton Jr., "Pain de mie is known also in France as pain anglais--a tribute of sorts to generations of English travelers who wanted the kind of white thin-crusted bread they got at home in Britain. In the beginning it was reserved for the English but gradually it came to be used (an appreciated) for croutons, bread crumbs, sandwiches, canapes served as hors d'oeuvres and for toasts with tea." (The Breads of France)

For Baking the following recipe you will need a Pain de Mie pan which you can purchase from The Baker's Catalog--www.bakerscatalogue.com

PAIN DE MIE

2/3 CUP MILK
1 CUP WATER
6 TABLESPOONS BUTTER, SOFTENED
2 1/4 TEASPOONS SALT
1 1/2 TABLESPOON SUGAR
1/4 CUP DRIED WHOLE MILK OR NONFAT DRY MILK
2 TABLESPOONS POTATO FLOUR, OR 1/4 CUP DRIED POTATO FLAKES
4 3/4 CUPS KING ARTHUR UNBLEACHED ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR
2 TEASPOONS INSTANT YEAST

Manual method: In a large bowl, combine the milk, water, butter, salt and sugar. Add the dry milk, potato flour, flour and yeast, stirring till the dough starts to leave the side of the bowl. Transfer the dough to a lightly greased surface, oil your hands, and knead it for 5 to 8 minutes, or until it's smooth and supple. Transfer the dough to a lightly greased bowl or dough-rising bucket, cover the bowl or bucket, and allow the dough to rise till puffy though not necessarily doubled in bulk, about 1 1/2 hours, depending on the warmth of your kitchen.

Mixer method: Combine the ingredients as above, using a flat beater paddle or beaters, then switch to the dough hook(s) and knead for 5 to 8 minutes. Transfer the dough to a lightly greased bowl or dough-rising bucket, cover the bowl or bucket, and allow the dough to rise till doubled in bulk, 1 to 2 hours.

Shaping the loaf: Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled work surface, deflate it gently, and allow it to rest for 5 to 10 minutes. Grease the pan, including the underside of the cover. Shape the dough into a flat-topped log and place it into the pan. Place the lid on the pan, leaving it open about an inch. Cover the opening with lightly greased plastic wrap, and allow the dough to rise until it's just below the lip of the pan, 30 to 45 minutes. Carefully slide the cover closed, and let it rest an additional 10 minute while you preheat your oven to 350 degrees F.

Baking the bread:Place the lidded pan in the oven, and bake the bread for 25 minutes. Remove the lid and bake for an additional 10 minutes, or until the loaf reads 190 degrees F when tested on an instant-read thermometer. Remove the loaf from the oven, allow it to rest for 10 minutes, then turn it out of the pan. Cover it loosely with a clean kitchen towel as it cools, so that the crust remains soft.

I can promise you that your child won't be trading her sandwich for something more appealing in some other
child's lunch.